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Reverse Flush / Clutch Fluid Change

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Old Jan 14, 2022 | 04:52 PM
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Default Reverse Flush / Clutch Fluid Change

I subscribe to Delboy's Garage channel on YouTube, and this very recent video hit my feed. I have always done it this way, but thought this could be useful for others. Note that you will likely need to remove some exhaust mountings and loosen the header bolts at the heads and swing the exhaust out slightly to get the cover off of the clutch slave access. He didn't have to on his bike, but for most, you will.

 
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Old Jan 14, 2022 | 10:15 PM
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When I flushed the clutch fluid late this summer, I did it the old fashioned way removing the old fluid from the master cylinder, refilling it with fresh fluid and then bleeding from the slave cylinder until the fluid was clear. I was always concerned about pushing old / bad fluid from the heat near the slave cylinder through the master cylinder by reverse flushing. So is my concern misplaced? And is this a better procedure for getting more old fluid out of the system?

I've seen several videos where people use a vacuum pump to pull fluid down from the master cylinder. That seems to work fine, but I had no problem using the clutch lever.

I was not able to remove the cover, but was able to move it enough to access the bleeder to complete the work.

Paul
 
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Old Jan 16, 2022 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
When I flushed the clutch fluid late this summer, I did it the old fashioned way removing the old fluid from the master cylinder, refilling it with fresh fluid and then bleeding from the slave cylinder until the fluid was clear. I was always concerned about pushing old / bad fluid from the heat near the slave cylinder through the master cylinder by reverse flushing. So is my concern misplaced? And is this a better procedure for getting more old fluid out of the system?

I've seen several videos where people use a vacuum pump to pull fluid down from the master cylinder. That seems to work fine, but I had no problem using the clutch lever.

I was not able to remove the cover, but was able to move it enough to access the bleeder to complete the work.

Paul
I prefer pushing it up from the slave, that ensures no air gets in the system. i don't see how some heat is going to matter to the oil(that's easily able to stand up to 400-500 degrees, a lot more when you use the good stuff(Motul 600)
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mikes300
I prefer pushing it up from the slave, that ensures no air gets in the system. i don't see how some heat is going to matter to the oil(that's easily able to stand up to 400-500 degrees, a lot more when you use the good stuff(Motul 600)
This.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 10:20 AM
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I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by voodoodrug
I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
I put a clear tube on the bleeder valve with the other end in a catch can on the ground. No problem will spills or fluid where I didn't want it.

Paul
 
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Old Jan 18, 2022 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by pgreer
I put a clear tube on the bleeder valve with the other end in a catch can on the ground. No problem will spills or fluid where I didn't want it.

Paul

This, and add a speed bleeder, and done in 5 minutes.
No air, no crap in the master cylinder and no brake fluid possibly on the paint. Way to much over thinking.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2022 | 07:06 AM
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Reverse bleeding has it usefulness - it's not for everyday bleeding really. Usually great when you replace a line (for taller bars etc) and the system is completely dry and full of air.
In that case (sometimes) you can pump and pump all day long and never get all the air out. Reverse bleeding ensures you chase all the air out because the bubbles rise. Really not hard.

Bottom-line, use whatever method works for you.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2022 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lp
Reverse bleeding has it usefulness - it's not for everyday bleeding really. Usually great when you replace a line (for taller bars etc) and the system is completely dry and full of air.
In that case (sometimes) you can pump and pump all day long and never get all the air out. Reverse bleeding ensures you chase all the air out because the bubbles rise. Really not hard.

Bottom-line, use whatever method works for you.
Absolutely reverse bleed for bar swaps where an upper extended line is needed on an ABS Bike, keep air out of the ABS module and save a trip to the dealer for sure. For fluid swaps I prefer my shop air vac pump connected at the bleeder to pull the old fluid out while I add new at the MC. Good Times!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2022 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by voodoodrug
I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
I bought that MiteyVac and it was an absolute disaster mainly due to the poor quality fittings supplied.
 
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