When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I subscribe to Delboy's Garage channel on YouTube, and this very recent video hit my feed. I have always done it this way, but thought this could be useful for others. Note that you will likely need to remove some exhaust mountings and loosen the header bolts at the heads and swing the exhaust out slightly to get the cover off of the clutch slave access. He didn't have to on his bike, but for most, you will.
When I flushed the clutch fluid late this summer, I did it the old fashioned way removing the old fluid from the master cylinder, refilling it with fresh fluid and then bleeding from the slave cylinder until the fluid was clear. I was always concerned about pushing old / bad fluid from the heat near the slave cylinder through the master cylinder by reverse flushing. So is my concern misplaced? And is this a better procedure for getting more old fluid out of the system?
I've seen several videos where people use a vacuum pump to pull fluid down from the master cylinder. That seems to work fine, but I had no problem using the clutch lever.
I was not able to remove the cover, but was able to move it enough to access the bleeder to complete the work.
When I flushed the clutch fluid late this summer, I did it the old fashioned way removing the old fluid from the master cylinder, refilling it with fresh fluid and then bleeding from the slave cylinder until the fluid was clear. I was always concerned about pushing old / bad fluid from the heat near the slave cylinder through the master cylinder by reverse flushing. So is my concern misplaced? And is this a better procedure for getting more old fluid out of the system?
I've seen several videos where people use a vacuum pump to pull fluid down from the master cylinder. That seems to work fine, but I had no problem using the clutch lever.
I was not able to remove the cover, but was able to move it enough to access the bleeder to complete the work.
Paul
I prefer pushing it up from the slave, that ensures no air gets in the system. i don't see how some heat is going to matter to the oil(that's easily able to stand up to 400-500 degrees, a lot more when you use the good stuff(Motul 600)
I prefer pushing it up from the slave, that ensures no air gets in the system. i don't see how some heat is going to matter to the oil(that's easily able to stand up to 400-500 degrees, a lot more when you use the good stuff(Motul 600)
I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
I put a clear tube on the bleeder valve with the other end in a catch can on the ground. No problem will spills or fluid where I didn't want it.
I put a clear tube on the bleeder valve with the other end in a catch can on the ground. No problem will spills or fluid where I didn't want it.
Paul
This, and add a speed bleeder, and done in 5 minutes.
No air, no crap in the master cylinder and no brake fluid possibly on the paint. Way to much over thinking.
Reverse bleeding has it usefulness - it's not for everyday bleeding really. Usually great when you replace a line (for taller bars etc) and the system is completely dry and full of air.
In that case (sometimes) you can pump and pump all day long and never get all the air out. Reverse bleeding ensures you chase all the air out because the bubbles rise. Really not hard.
Reverse bleeding has it usefulness - it's not for everyday bleeding really. Usually great when you replace a line (for taller bars etc) and the system is completely dry and full of air.
In that case (sometimes) you can pump and pump all day long and never get all the air out. Reverse bleeding ensures you chase all the air out because the bubbles rise. Really not hard.
Bottom-line, use whatever method works for you.
Absolutely reverse bleed for bar swaps where an upper extended line is needed on an ABS Bike, keep air out of the ABS module and save a trip to the dealer for sure. For fluid swaps I prefer my shop air vac pump connected at the bleeder to pull the old fluid out while I add new at the MC. Good Times!
I tried the push method once and squirted brake fluid in my eye and gave up.
trying the mitey vac this time, still in the box, hope it works well and I don't make a mess.
I bought that MiteyVac and it was an absolute disaster mainly due to the poor quality fittings supplied.
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.