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A 128 will start and run on stock tune, long enough to heat cycle and check for leaks.
I load the new tune I'm going to use and do a quick engine run before tearing into the engine for Stage II or big bore build, just to make sure the tune file is not corrupted.
FP3 is JUNK. Get the powervision and tune from fuel moto.
While I dont disagree, Fuel moto will send a FP3 tune. The main reason I would never use a FP3-4 is where can I find Dyno support for their product? At least if you buy a PV you can take it to a tuner and you have the license already.
Good news is I went out and made sure my timing was right and it was right on. Next i started over with my TDC then once again adjusted all my pushrods making sure they was set right. I also added the 475C cam from VH to my current map. I put all my covers on and most all of my exhaust system enough to test my bike on the lift. Well I started the engine up this time it cranked much faster and I let it run to warm up like the good guys recommended on this forum to do. The more I let it warm up the smoother it seem to run and the motor run much better. I did notice one of my pushrod covers was leaking some oil from around the top area that I will have to work on.
Of course I havent tried riding it yet and really check it out further. I know if I can get it running half decent my next step is to replace my FP3 to a PV so I can hunt for a decent Dyno tuner around this area of Pensacola Fl. One again I want to give a big thanks to all of you that took the time to help me out on this install. I wanted to do this cam install for the education on learning my bike so if I ever break down out in no where maybe Ill have the knowledge on how to fix it to get home or a shop. . Thanks guys
Ok I called VH for a up dated map with my new cam set up. They set me one to flash my FP3 on my bike adding the map they put together for me. It still idle after warming up to 1200 rpms which was to high. I called back and was told I needed to ride my bike some so my ecm can make the necessary adjustments to and it should then idle down. Well the only problem is my lifters are tapping pretty bad and I dont want to ride it the way they tap. I did find out I was supposed to only adjust my push rods with the ss lifters to 3.5 full turns. But I have them adjusted 4 full turns. Got to go back and adjust them to the 3.5 and hopefully that will quieten them down. Hopefully tomorrow Ill get to test ride it.
Propflux01, I did install a can map from Vance & Hines and crown loaded it to my bike through the FP3. I talked with a representative and he took down all my bikes information and sent me a map wjhich I down loaded to my bike. My bike idle at 1200 rpm s when warmed up which was way to high, so I called VH back and the tech told me to drive my bike awhile so the ecm will recognize it and it will then make my adjustments on my bike. The bad thing right now is Ive got to reset my pushrods before I can test ride my bike due to lifters are knocking to much. I set them at 4 complete turns and later I found out they have to be set to 31/2 turns.
Propflux01, I did install a can map from Vance & Hines and crown loaded it to my bike through the FP3. I talked with a representative and he took down all my bikes information and sent me a map wjhich I down loaded to my bike. My bike idle at 1200 rpm s when warmed up which was way to high, so I called VH back and the tech told me to drive my bike awhile so the ecm will recognize it and it will then make my adjustments on my bike. The bad thing right now is Ive got to reset my pushrods before I can test ride my bike due to lifters are knocking to much. I set them at 4 complete turns and later I found out they have to be set to 31/2 turns.
1400 idle RPM at cold start up is normal.
My bike does that usually for about 30 seconds then drops down to 1300, then to 1200, 1100, then down to 1000. After about 5 minutes and the bike is warm it idles at 950.
You mentioned you were using S&S adjustable pushrods. I used one of their models and their instructions definitely called for four full turns after finding the snug but spinnable spot while on the heel of the cam. Your pushrod p/n may be different than mine, but in any case I doubt that loosening them is going to make anything quieter. It's more likely that you've still got air in one or more lifters. Mine rattled for at least 20 miles and never really got quiet until I snugged them up to 27 flats, i.e. 4 1/2 turns. I still have available movement in the lifters and it's running fine now.
The next time I do this I'm going to submerge the lifters in oil and pull a vacuum on the container. Somebody here posted this idea and showed a video with little bubbles pouring out of each lifter. When they stopped the lifters were fully primed. Good luck geting everything sorted.
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