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Old Jun 11, 2023 | 09:26 PM
  #21  
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I used a $30 heat gun on my lifter cuff bolts. I heated them from below after emptying out the cam chest. The heat gun is handy for shrink tubes on wiring now that I have one.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2023 | 11:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by M Oclaf
All the cool tools listed, like that Amazon gizmo, and this and that, we know or read them, but wouldn’t a simple soldering iron work as well for the low budget folks? The one offs? No need to invest in a fancy smancy tool one may never use again?

Theres so much information out there I am surprised folks still have issues…regardless, keep on posting up Harley stuff. As hilarious as the political stuff is, or off topic, I really enjoy seeing folks make their Harley theirs. What the forum really is about, no?
Some stuff maybe but trying to heat a 1/4" or larger bolt in a giant aluminum heat sink enough to do any good with the typical home soldering iron you'll be there a long time trying, and I mean trying. Was using a pencil torch, took to long and emptied fast. This was close price wise and and has hang time.
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Jun 11, 2023 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2023 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mchad
Thats exactly what my friend who is the service and parts director at my old dealer (a good dealer with smart management and staff who aren’t just parts swapping monkeys) said when I broke the head off a lower rocker cover bolt doing my 124 build. He said the thread locker the factory uses can be too aggressive, but it just needs to be worked back and forth slowly as you turn it out. Luckily I had enough to get vice grips on the head and got it out without having to have a machine shop take over…

same damn bolt…
Yeah, I remember that happening to you. Sucks. You are right, and any damn thing can, and will happen, so I will watch what I post.

I have done 3 sets of these, now, (and 1000s of more stubborn engine fasteners in aluminum in a long career) and I did 2 with no heat, and 1 with heat. Like I mentioned in my previous post, the heat definitely helps spin them out easier.

I have developed a feel for fastener yield, having learned the hard way as a young wrench, too many damn times, and I tend to think that anybody can do it, if they are careful enough.


 
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 12:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NorthWestern
Yeah, I remember that happening to you. Sucks. You are right, and any damn thing can, and will happen, so I will watch what I post.

I have done 3 sets of these, now, (and 1000s of more stubborn engine fasteners in aluminum in a long career) and I did 2 with no heat, and 1 with heat. Like I mentioned in my previous post, the heat definitely helps spin them out easier.

I have developed a feel for fastener yield, having learned the hard way as a young wrench, too many damn times, and I tend to think that anybody can do it, if they are careful enough.
Years back when I did bike work out of the garage, guy brought me a nice looking intact 74 shovel FLH, what should have been a straight forward R&R on the engine turned into every mechanics waking nightmare, he had generously used red loctite on EVERY bolt and nut on that machine, no exageration, everything, admitted to itafter I jumped him about it, the old my buddy said... .

Was weeks cleaning that mess up.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2023 | 07:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bradsULtd
I have had some experience using soldering irons to solder over the years, but when trying to solder to a larger metal mass, soldering iron tip heat is "sinked" away from the area you are trying to solder, because you have to touch the tip to the metal mass. I don't think a soldering iron will work in this case. JMO as I have not tried this...
Yup a large (100w) soldering iron worked well for me. Put on the largest tip I had and placed it on the bolt head for maybe two minutes. It was plenty hot.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2023 | 08:49 PM
  #26  
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Installing my cam today. Glad to report I removed the tappet cuffs without a problem.

The rear came out really easy. I started feeling some resistance on the front one about half way out. I soaked it with kroll oil and let it sit for a half hour or so. It then came right out. I did not have to use any heat.

Even though I have decades of experience tapping small holes in tough materials and have a good feel for this sort of thing, I appreciate the heads up on the potential problems with these bolts.

 
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Old Jul 8, 2023 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by USMC1911
Yup a large (100w) soldering iron worked well for me. Put on the largest tip I had and placed it on the bolt head for maybe two minutes. It was plenty hot.
That is my thinking, it’s a small bolt, you want the bolt to warm up, not the case/cover. No?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2023 | 09:24 PM
  #28  
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Yup. Seemed to work well. The loctite was pretty well gone so it must have melted.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2023 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Toolmaker5150
I do not use it at all on easy to reach exposed bolts. Cam covers, primary covers, derby covers ect. I don’t even use it on handle bar risers or clamps. I use a dab of anti sieze on all of the above. I check my stuff religiously and rarely find a loose fastener.
Same here. Good to know someone with more experience than me arrived at the same place.
 
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