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i don't normally believe in stuff like this. i would give this stuff a try if it was cheap enough. if you run a tractor trailer rig it might save you some money in the long run, but on a motorcycle i change my oil to much to benefit from it. good oil and change often are the key to engine long life.
What I do know about friction is that when two things rub together the first thing that happens is they begin to develop an electrical bond (Similar to static electricity generated when you rub your socks on the carpet). The more friction, the stronger the bond. I an engine, this causes the exhaust gases and residual metals to be attracted. etc etc. I found it all to make sense from a chemistry perspective.. We shall see.
That's the first thing? I thought heat and resistance were generated, thus the need for the lubricant. Interesting.
I can't speak from a chemistry perspective, as you can, but merely from years of assembling, disassembling, and doing analysis of failures on internal combustion engines. I have seen engines after 100s of thousands of miles in a wide variety of conditions. My favorite was always the customer that ran extended intervals, suffered an oil related failure, and claimed he was using "XX" oil additive that had similar claims.
Just use synthetic, or a any good quality oil, and change at recommended intervals.
Good luck with your experiment. I do hope it delivers all that you claim.
Only additive ever impressed me was once about 1971 was given an ounce bottle of clear liquid by the Porsche factory team guys in Dallas for a Can-Am race. No label just a clear glass bottle. Told me it was pure liquid silicone and to add it to the oil pan. My car was a 1969 Pontiac GTO Judge. After adding the stuff the engine wouldn't shut off without using the clutch. Seemed to run maybe a little better but felt smoother. Looked for the stuff later but never found any.
I knew a guy back in the 70`s that had a dodge van, and some guys from the factory gave him a carb to test out.
The van got incredible fuel mileage with that carb, in fact, he had to stop about every 125 miles or so to drain fuel out of the tank, or it would overflow...
That's the first thing? I thought heat and resistance were generated, thus the need for the lubricant.
My favorite was always the customer that ran extended intervals, suffered an oil related failure, and claimed he was using "XX" oil additive that had similar claims.
Just use synthetic, or a any good quality oil, and change at recommended intervals.
Good luck with your experiment. I do hope it delivers all that you claim.
Maybe not the first thing but it does generate heat and resistance as well. I left that out as I assumed it was a given when talking about oils and lubrication etc. What i meant is when you drag your socks (friction) all over the carpet you generate static electricity along with heat and resistance.
I do plan on changing at recommended intervals regardless of x additive. Ive not built many engines (one to be exact), so I wouldnt be much good talking from that standpoint. Interesting to hear about clients running x additive and experiencing an oil failure.
Im willing to try it but itll be a while. Next service is 3k plus miles away. i was thinking of trying it for the last 1k.
Penzoil is making oil from natural gas as opposed to crude oil. Allegedly a lot cleaner. I put some in my truck. I have less valve train trickle but that could be because of the dirty oil that was in there.
Thats worth a try. I wouldnt ever use synthetic in anything i own. Garbage and waste of money. Buddy used it in his bike and you could hear every tick possible. I use rotella 15w40 in my harley and 10w30 in my vehicles and have for years. Besides harley dont even make engine oil. They may sell it but dont make it
this is the cat's meow!!!!
this will eliminate the need for load resistors, will add 1 mile in increase visibility and blinks so smoothly you'll wonder why everyone doesn't us it.
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