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It doesn`t matter where you ask, it is one of those things where people will have differing opinions.
You asked about M1 15w50 in the original post, I`ve never heard of or seen an engine that had a problem with this oil, or any other oil used in a car or motorcycle, and I have never read a post on any forum of any premature wear or failure caused by this (or any other) oil.
In reality, as long as the oil is the correct viscosity grade the engine will be protected.
Although there is at least one guy on the forum who wouldn`t run M1 in his lawn mower...
Thanks Dan I appreciate your input, My point is though why wouldn't we use any of the 5w30 weight synthetic blends that actually offer better protection.. as in a literal cold weight to aid in cold starts with the higher shear protection as well.... this is all I'm really getting at..
thanks again..
I ran M1 15-50 in my Buell. At 8000 miles lost a intake seal and went very lean the last couple hours of a midnight run home. Oil took all the damage, I debated pulling it down, but just changed the seals and oil. Ran another 14000 miles and tore it down due to a broken front motor mount.
All I found on inspection at 22K miles was a little discoloration on the wrist pins. Sold me on Mobil 1 15-50 in a HD motor.
Other point is, if you're really in doubt, send a sample to Blackstone, that will tell you what is really happening internally.
Thanks Dan I appreciate your input, My point is though why wouldn't we use any of the 5w30 weight synthetic blends that actually offer better protection.. as in a literal cold weight to aid in cold starts with the higher shear protection as well.... this is all I'm really getting at..
thanks again..
We don`t know if 5w30 offers better protection in a big air cooled engine, do we?
I believe 5w30 will protect the bearings, cams etc, but the issue I would be wary of is cylinder to piston protection, I think a big sloppy fit air cooled engine needs the higher viscosity grade oil.
Maybe someone here has tried it, that would be very interesting...
Be wary of that website`s claims about oil, it is a lot of talk, but the guy offers no information on his so called testing...
To actually test an oil requires a huge testing process, not just some ancient ball bearing friction tester that gives results that have no relationship to real world use.
When you say 15W-50 and the 20W-50, the real number you look at is the 50. They get it from how fast oil flows thur a hole in a measured time.
The number before the W is the oils ability to flow like in much colder weather.
I would not be concerned about that one unless you actually use your bike in cold weather.
Now there is another big difference Mobile's 15 and 20W. The 20 one is a Sport Utility bike oil and has additives not allowed in the car oil
Another interesting thing to me is something Dan said. And I am not clear about. Years ago, air cooled motors did have a lot of clearance in the cylinder to piston and tended to run heavy motor oil.
Harley with their Teflon patch is crazy close.
I really don't understand why they need 50. I am old School that use to run 10W-40 in my cars. I run now what they say and it works.
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