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I am tired of spending $11 per quart for Mobile 1 with no clear benefits and am considering going back to a petroleum based oil. I thought that Synthetic was the way to go until I spoke to Dave at JD Cycle Works. He said that he doesnt run it, and that it only seems to give people the impression that they can go more miles between changes which is untrue. I tend to go with Dave's opionion as he tears into these engines everyday and is highly regarded on this site. The only reason I started using Mobile 1 is that I heard it would decrease my operating temp, which it did not do at all.
I am interested in your opinions about the following
1. I have heard that switching from Synthetic to petroleum is not good for the engine (seals, etc.). Is there any truth to this.
2. What is the best way to get as much of the Synthetic oil out of the crank case as possible? I have heard that draining the engine and then running it for a few seconds will do the trick. Is this safe? If so, do I do it with the old filter still in place or while it is removed?
3. For those of you that use petroleum based oil, what brand do you suggest I try. Not interesed in HD oil.
4. What type of oil filter do you use. I have always used HD, but the Indy shop was out of them last oil change, so I used a Rev Tech which they said was better (more microns?) This filter has had a slow leak which might be characterisic of the brand and maybe I just got a bad one.
1. False
2. Change it
3. Spectro Heavy Duty 20W 50.
4. HD
Who are better lovers, redheads or brunettes?(notice I did not include blondes) You will get the same type of answers about oils, the syn vs dino debate, and then which is the best in each category. It is personal experience for the most part. If something has worked for someone, then they feel that is the best.
I do run Redline 20-50 in the engine and change at 5k miles, based on oil analysis results. But, I could just as easily run Amsoil, Mobil One or any multitude of others as probably get similar results. My 120" is probably way tougher on oil than most of the stockers or lightly modified engines out there.
I also use K&N filters for one reason only - the nut welded on the can makes it easy to remove. I have run HD, WIX, Fran, Autolite and many others without issue.
This empassioned debate will rage on till the end of time, and I for one am thoroughly entertained at times by the uniformed opinions of many, and educated by the facts provided by others.
Bottom line is that whatever you use will most likely give you good service.
A few years ago American Iron Magazine did an article on the thermal breakdown of conventional oils at given temps. As oil temps reach 250 -280 degrees F. the thermal protection and lubricity of the oil is compromised and the oil never recovers from this heat damage. Synthetics can take heat above 325 degrees before breaking down. The new stock EFI bikes are pumping more heat throughout the engine and cases. Just my 2 cents.
thats the only reason I use it, not for more miles between changes.
I've always used Dino and Harley Filters, no problems at all, and no oil use.I think it's just like your cage, change at regular intervals, and if it's low add some. I live in the desert,and it get pretty dusty sometimes, so I change every 2500 miles.
I know I won't be using synthetic oil up here in Canada ,I went to get some oil to do a change on my bike at Canadian Tire ,I usually use dino oil but was actually thinking of trying some amsoil or mobil vtwin until I seen the price ,these bandits have jumped the price on these products to 19.99 a litre .it will be a cold day in hell before I pay that price for a litre of oil,instead I grabbed 4 litres of the castrol motorcycle dino oil which I have been using for years and thousands of miles on many bikes with 0 issues and it is only 5.69 a litre which in my opinion is somewhat over priced because it is likely the same thing as castrol gtx in a different bottle,it makes me wonder how far these companies will go to find the motorcycle enthusiast's breaking point when it comes to consumer gouging and riders say F.U.
Here's a good one for you experts. Since syn runs at a thinner film, does it seal the rings as well as dino, which is one of the functions of oil. In other words, would there be more blowby with syn than dino? This would cause more carry over into the breather and more carbon formation on top of the piston and in the chamber. Anybody made a connection to more carbon with syn use? I've since rerouted my breathers on the 113 but have never come up with an answer as to why I had so much carbon buildup at 13k with my 96" engine, which spent most of it's life on Amsoil. It was nasty, like the piston had no more room between it and the head.
Ron
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Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup.
High oil temperature in excess of 240F will break down petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish, and increases wear.
People forget that beside cooling and lubrication, oil performs another very important function. It acts like a "garbage can". Oil also carries away any impurities, such as filings ground off of moving metal parts, because they will harm the engine. That's why changing your oil at regular intervals is important.
The seal issue is backwards,switching to synthetic is bad for the seals,not from ! I Have been building all types of engines since the mid-seventies and I do not use synthetic oil in any of mine and I never will !I may be old school but after over 100
O'Hauls without problems the numbers speak for themselves!
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