Full syn or mix with dino oil?
Oh - FYI: Harley's valves tick, the motors make noise and leak oil, the transmissions are clunky, and they shift like crap. PERIOD. No magical lubricant delivered on the wings of angels in a golden bottle under the moonlight is ever going to fix that. EVER.
The mystic reason why the "new" oil (insert brand of choice here) makes your valves magically quieter: You just poured COLD oil into a COLD engine and fired it up for two minutes. The thick-as-molasses oil quiets the valves-crank-rods-flux capacitor and you shut the bike off feeling good about your new change. I've seen posts on every lubricant sold in the history of mankind as having the ability to make the valves quieter, make shifting 'smoother', stopping leaks, or some other miraculous benefit.
Oh - FYI: Harley's valves tick, the motors make noise and leak oil, the transmissions are clunky, and they shift like crap. PERIOD. No magical lubricant delivered on the wings of angels in a golden bottle under the moonlight is ever going to fix that. EVER.
The mystic reason why the "new" oil (insert brand of choice here) makes your valves magically quieter: You just poured COLD oil into a COLD engine and fired it up for two minutes. The thick-as-molasses oil quiets the valves-crank-rods-flux capacitor and you shut the bike off feeling good about your new change. I've seen posts on every lubricant sold in the history of mankind as having the ability to make the valves quieter, make shifting 'smoother', stopping leaks, or some other miraculous benefit.
I fully warm my oil by riding minimum 30 miles (GASPS), kicking the ready drain pan under the bike and dumping it fully hot. The motor dont have enough time to cool or wet sump before it is started to check quality of work. Then for the flippin fun of it, or just because I can and will, I ride atleast another 30 after I do it. Sounds to me like you never used a brand of oil that does make more top end noise, not in the garage in a stone cold engine with cold oil. But a fully warmed up bike with fully warmed up oil.
If a rider does not know their machine enough to be able to observe some oils are more noisy than others like amsoil, that rattles like no other in every bike I ever heard it in when on a ride, fully warmed up, then they just run the bike on a cold engine with cold oil in the garage.
I buy bikes like that with less than 1000 miles and 4-5 years old all the time, saves me **** tons of money.
Sounds to me like you dont get out much.
Learn to read man. Cold oil INTO a cold engine.
I use Amsoil exclusively now and don't notice excessive noise. I've used 360, Syn3, Mobil 1, and a handful of others in the past but I prefer Amsoil. Then again I've only put 70,000+ miles on the 4 bikes I've owned in the last six years and rebuilt one Harley from the ground up so I probably don't have the experience required to notice anything out of place. This includes four 'iron butt' rides of over a thousand miles in under 24 hours. I'm a total noob. I've only been to Seattle, Chicago, Houston, and everywhere in between in weather ranging from 120* heat in August, snowpack on the road in January with my helmet visor icing over completely, rain so bad cars pulled over, hail, and the occasional nice sunny 75* September day. I really do need to get out more.
Thank you for your polite advice on how to change your oil. I'm sure your method will go viral and revolutionize how the rest of us do it in the future. Who knew warm oil flowed out of an engine better than cold? I could explain how heat causes the curly shaped molecules in the viscosity modifiers to extend combating the thinning effect heat has on oil but it's way over my head.
My bike isn't a coatrack in the garage and guys like you make the "Harley" community a real joy. Thank you for identifying yourself as one of the guys that give the rest of us a bad name.
Have a nice day.
That's how they make semi-synthetic oil and it works very well.
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