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I wish I had the time to work on mine daily, takes longer for me but Im still aiming for this summer as well. Still lots to do and it'll be spring before I know it.
I see pics of the trees but looking forward to seeing a closeup and understanding how they're adjustable. Also why you have to change the angle with a sidecar.
According to the folks on the hydra glide site, the extra rake (up to about 5") helps with stability when the hack is attached, and makes it easier to steer at low speeds. The adjustment isn't healthy for riding without the sidecar, though - tank slappers are apparently a real thing with the longer wheelbase and different trail.
Disclaimer:
This is all theory for me - my '52 FL still has the mounts for a sidecar, but I haven't even thought about putting one on.
while the trail does change a bit 5 inches is a stretch - don't believe what you might read on any post until you do your research - you will take a hit for that from some one else
And I thought the bevels on my lower shock ends were from rubbing on something or some sort of damage. Good to know.
I need one shock rebuilt out of 4 at the very least, any suggestions on where to send them?
One step forward and twp stepsback today......
Assembled the rear shocks and put them on the top stud. Came back some two hours later...the right shock leaks. So....some wasted time amd money. Now I will have to use the 67 and up style until I find a correct one. Sucks cuz I spent the time and money on cad plating, spent the time and money on chrome, spent time and money sending them back east to have them checked, spent time assembling the shocks based on some person who said he "tested" them and they did not leak. Wrong!
Enough bitchin, whining and grousing.
To answer your question Paul. These shock are not rebuildable as they stand. They are completely sealed. They cannot be taken apart as they currently exist.I have found no one that can rebuild them.
I just don't understand why they are not built like the front forks with the plug and such that allows you to drain the oil in the forks and replace seals and such. I have an old set of Sporty shocks that are built in the same fashion as the Panhead shocks. I get done I am going to see about trying to modify them to accept a drain plug much like that used on our front end
Last edited by panz4ever; Jan 7, 2020 at 11:08 PM.
Panz, I feel your pain on the shocks. I was never able to find someone that could rebuild the Monroe mini shock on my springer front end ('46 WL). I found one used, had every so slight amount of resistance so we installed it and there it is, I am sure a like new one would do a far better job, but we do what we must, they are for riding after all. Carry on.
Architect, you said it for sure. This is going to be be ridden, and with the addition of the hack there is no way I want to be going down the road with a half-baked rear suspension that is correct but not functional. The 67 and up go non today.
I had Bill Custom Cyles (PA) rebuild my lower tubes. They do it one of two ways, you can send your lowers and uppers and they will rebush your lowers to match your uppers, or you can send your lowers on ly, they will use their uppers and rebush your lowers to match.. The mark each so that there is no mistaking which tube goes to which lower.
If the bottom of your fork tubes are leaking, one of the prime suspects may be this washer...
Goes here and the damper tube stud end goes through it
PITA to drive out and get back in. That stud will pull almost flush to the surface of the washer (hadn't tightened mine yet) One I did I backed off the nut, used a wee bit of yamabond, put he nut back on and called it a day.
Front end assembled. Stainless cowbells polished, parkerized nuts and washers holding them in place, polished lower legs.
Last edited by panz4ever; Jan 10, 2020 at 11:51 AM.
So I am following Pauls Pan build (hellonewman). Not wanting to cut into his build thread. He's starting with the motor and wiring around the dash and working his way back. I am starting from the rear (so far) and kinda working forward.
So the question is regarding the directional signal wires. They go all the way (in a seperate loom) from the rear direction indicators to the front panel (behind the nacelle).
Coming out of the rear fender it makes sense that they travel along the left top part of the bike. What happens when they get to the seat post tube area? Do they go between the backbone where the tanks mount? Do the run along the side of the backbone?
There is already a wire loom coming from the dash to the rear terminal box that is going to be fighting for room.
If it runs along the left side of the backbone it will be competing for space where the left gas tank tucks along the frame.
Using the OEM cloth wiring and loom so it definitely takes up space.
Lastly there are two wiring looms coming out of the rear fender (tail lamp/stop lamp and directional signals - left/right). Once they clear the fender do I use cloth tape to secure the looms to the frame?
Last edited by panz4ever; Jan 22, 2020 at 08:07 PM.
Wont hurt my feelings and Ill be looking at yours for some correct details!
Any example Ive seen the two harnesses run under the T-bar bolt and between the tanks. Its the easiest path to the console. I was told the rear harness that runs above the oil tank is tie strapped to the tube not taped but they are taped along the backbone with hockey tape.
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