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The clutch slipping will cause a starting problem. If it is not grabbing fully, the engine will not turn over completly. It will roll until the compression stroke, then the slipping clutch lets it stop the cycle. What kind of clutch and what kind of carb?
Slipping clutch doesnt help your issues.Tighten it up.What carb are you using?These bikes seem to have their own personalities for starting.Is the bike even trying to bark?Kick ea. cyl threw w/carb squirt prior to kick.Do both cyls.Now turn the ignition on and try to start it.Sounds like either the plugs are gapped wrong,getting fuel soaked by carb issues or timing is off.
I hate electronic ignitions. With a points type, it is much easier to troubleshoot. Like mentioned, we are assuming you have good spark. The type of carb will make a big difference in how to start it. A stock Linkert will need the ignition switch left off for about 3 prime kicks. After priming, retard spark, pull choke on, turn ignition switch on, open throttle a crack, and give it a good kick. If it starts, advance the timing, pull choke up about halfway until it warms up. If it has a carb with an accelerator pump, such as an S&S or Bendix, give it a couple of prime shots with ignition switch off, roll it thru a couple of times to get fuel to the cylinders, turn ignition on and kick it a good lick. I suggest putting the stock distributor back in it until you have it running. That would eliminate any guess work with the Mallory. Good luck.
Couple of things...Was it running befor he put the Mallory set up in? Or did he build it up so it is a new bike and has yet to be run. If you have a fresh battery and spark and fuel, go back and think about timing. Have you checked to make sure your pushrods are adjusted properly (I assume you are probably using solids). Are you sure the Mallory is not 180 out. It is easy to do (did it on my first install with one).
Pans are like women, each is different and has its own procedure for starting. Carb set up can affect starting as well. I run an S&S Super B on my 50 with the old manual advance distributor. Cold starts..with the ignition off I pull the choke up and kick through twice.
I retard the the distrbutor about one-quarter from full advance, turn on the ignition, barely crack the throttle, and kick once. Hasn't failed to start yet (always a relative term with a pan tho). I immediately drop the choke and let her warm up. The 50 does not like a lot of gas on cold starts. If I try to prime the carb with a couple squirts of gas (as TDWZ28 suggests) she will only spit and cough at me. My 65 uses a stock Linkert M74 and stock 65 distributor. With gas line open and ignition off and full choke, I have to kick through 3 times. Before turning on ignition, I back off choke two clicks, turn on ignition, crack throttle about one-quarter turn and usually kick twice before it starts. Once it does I open up choke completely or it spits and dies almost as quickly. Two pans...two different starting methods.
On my 51 Pan, I had to choke it and kick it over twice with the ignition OFF, then turn the ignition ON, and kick it again. Worked for me every time. Of course make sure the petcock is turned on and the carb is getting gas.
I just put a mallory on my 56 and we had all kinds of problems. Finally got it going but now it doesn't even want to burp. I'm not all that happy with it yet. Another mechanic told me that they just don't work and I'm leaning that way myself.
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