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Starting my Pan

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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for all the help. I put a photo in the album page. I have an aftermarket distributor with auto advance. I'm going to put new plugs in it this week and see what happens.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #12  
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I am going to put new plugs in it this week. I have put a photo in the album section, give it a look.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #13  
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Matching numbers? What do you want for her?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #14  
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Hey 57, no on the numbers. It's got S&S cases. I was thinking of around $8,000. I got some new plugs today, the new E3's. I guess I'll try them next week. Did you see the picture yet?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #15  
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Hey 57, If you click on my name above hang around you will see a photo.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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Nice looking bike. Sorry, but not interested in S&S. Good luck on getting her started, let us know how you make out.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 01:27 PM
  #17  
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My method - leave ignition & fuel off. Open throttle all the way and kick over 3 times. Then turn on gas & ignition, pull enrichener up all the way and kick her over. If you had the original distributor you should retard the ignition.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #18  
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I've played with pans for some time now and have ran into this more than once. You have a intake leak. With a leak there will not be enough manifold vacume to suck gas into the cylinder. I bet after you try to start it for some time if you lean you bike over to the right gas will just pour out of your carb/air cleaner, it will pool in the manifold and never had the vacuum to pull it in. Also it probably starts when its warm and there is some fuel still in the cylinder and the aluminum has expanded helping fix the leak but after sitting and the vapors have dispersed good luck. The o-rings on the manifold commonly leak. sometimes there are over tightened sometimes the o-rings spilt. When building one of these motors on the bench before I install the pushrods I built and adapter ( a sink drain stop) that I pressurize with regulated air 15psi and adjust the orings till they stop leaking. It's also crucial that when the heads and barrels are install the must be lined up and torqued down with the manifold in place or you will always be fighting intake leaks.hope this helps
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #19  
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I have a early 50's pan with std heads, b-grind cam, straight pipes, s&s shorty E and old manual advance timer with points and condensor.

To start, I give two full squirts of throttle. Then, with ignition off, three kicks to prime. ...Turn ignition on, should start with one kick. My timer is fixed. Points are set to open just as line on flywheel enters the inspection hole. points set at .022---------- plugs set at .028.

Rode the bike last year from chicago to sturgis. I had no problems.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 04:04 PM
  #20  
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The spray from the pump on the s&s should be a fan spray.. no squirts.

Forget using the enrichener.
 
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