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51 pan starting

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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Default 51 pan starting

Just got my first 51 pan head and worked on starting it today. The bike will start but I can't keep it running. It will only start with the choke pushed down all the way and the throttle wide open. Once it starts it runs for about 10 seconds and then dies. I've tried advancing the spark, moving the choke and throttle, but it doen't change anything. One thing I'm not sure about is if I have the gas valve opened correctly. The bike sounds like it's just running out of gas. Should I twist the gas valve open just a few turns or more than that? I notice that the valve can be pulled up as well (I believe this is for the reserve..right?). Any ideas.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Congrats on the pan! and welcome.

If the valve isn't in the on position, (full up), she's a no work right.
could also be an intake manifold leak...........possibly, but lets make sure it has fuel first.

More info is needed:
Was it running fine before you bought it?
Stale gas?

A bit more info would be helpful.

The valve needs to be in the full up position. try that and report back.
 

Last edited by lownslow; Feb 18, 2012 at 07:34 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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Yes the bike was running very well before I bought it. It's completely restored.
Gas is new.
I did have the fuel valve on correctly. When the bike starts, it "screams" and sounds great...but quickly shuts down. I try to play with the choke and throttle but can't get it to idle.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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It's sounds like it's running out of fuel for some reason. I know it can get messy, but try disconnecting the fuel line, valve off, then open it and let it flow into a container. If all is well there, move to the carb. It's acts like it uses up fuel in the bowl then it's not replaced or not replaced fast enough.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickdraw100
Just got my first 51 pan head and worked on starting it today. The bike will start but I can't keep it running. It will only start with the choke pushed down all the way and the throttle wide open. Once it starts it runs for about 10 seconds and then dies. I've tried advancing the spark, moving the choke and throttle, but it doen't change anything. One thing I'm not sure about is if I have the gas valve opened correctly. The bike sounds like it's just running out of gas. Should I twist the gas valve open just a few turns or more than that? I notice that the valve can be pulled up as well (I believe this is for the reserve..right?). Any ideas.
Nice looking piece you have there...

You should only have to push the choke lever down (choke fully closed) when priming the bike for a cold start. Depending upon the carb and your starting techniques you back off 2-3 clicks from fully closed, half-retard on the timer, a couple of kicks and you start the motor. Then you move to full open and fully advanced and head on down the road. (This applies to a Linkert carb which should be mounted on your bike.)

Obviously that is not happening here.

Take a flashlight and look into the tanks. OEM tanks were parkerized on the inside. Some folks used a tank sealer when working/putting together older models. That sealer breaks down with modern gas and all you got is slime mixed with gas

Inspect the gas caps. You might try doing your start procedure with one cap off and then the other to see if the bike stays running. If it does then it is the offending cap that made the bike crap out that is the problem. They are/should be vented on both sides.

Inspect the fuel shut off valve. Will it run with the valve pulled all the way out (this is used for "reserve"). If it does then you need to replace the assembly.

Drop the bowl and inspect the float. Take a look at the manual (tell me you have one because you simply cannot own old iron without one) and see if the float level is set correctly. If the level is not set correctly the bike carb will overflow and run out the bottom of the carb (not the case here) or die because the carb is not getting the fuel it needs to stay alive.

At the same time inspect the float. Old floats were cork with varnish on them. With today's shitty fuel and additives that varnish gets eaten away and the float becomes a sinker which translates to your carb running out of gas and shutting down. If the carb is brass you need to inspect it for leaks. If it has pinhole leaks (thank you China) the float fills and your bikes dies.

Lastly how about a bit of story time as to how you acquired the bike and maybe a couple of quality pics. Pan **** is always a welcome sight!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Good info Dave..............

I'm surprised the person he bought it from did not go over the starting quirks of this bike. They all have em.

Not to hijack, (I think he signed off and is out in the garage), but have you seen the 2 Pans Steve Barber has for sale on Fleabay? '57 & '58, both unrestored originals. I'm stunned at the price they are bringing. Thoughts?

PM if you don't want to hijack.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Yes I have the original manual for the bike along with a ton of other info..like the full build sheet when it was restored in 94'. And yes the guy I bought it from provided me with the starting instuctions. I guess I just have to look at this like a simple engine rather than my 09 Fatbob...technology has changed a bit... I'll work on it tomorrow and report back on what I find.

Panz4ever: I love the "PanPorn" comment!! I'll get a few more pics posted in a couple days. Bought the bike from a great guy in Virgina. This bike has all the correct cylinder/case numbers with a great paint job and some nice chrome. One question that I would like answered is "are the three chrome "seargent" stripes on the back fender how it came from the factory in 51?" I have looked at many pics and some have them and some don't. I'm guesing it was an option. Just wondering.

BTW: I can't wait till some warm weather rolls around here in northern Indiana!!!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Sorry for the ASSumed comment QuickDraw. I'm glad he went over starting techniques with you. There's just not a lot of info in your original post.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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Welcome and congratulations! I love your scoot. You'll figure it out.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lownslow
Good info Dave..............

I'm surprised the person he bought it from did not go over the starting quirks of this bike. They all have em.

Not to hijack, (I think he signed off and is out in the garage), but have you seen the 2 Pans Steve Barber has for sale on Fleabay? '57 & '58, both unrestored originals. I'm stunned at the price they are bringing. Thoughts?

PM if you don't want to hijack.
One thing about steve is that you definitely get what you are paying for. He is the real deal but his prices are way beyond my pocketbook, Saw the 57 and still not at reserve at 23k+. With the economy he may have to sit on it for a bit...

Originally Posted by Quickdraw100
Thanks for the info guys. Yes I have the original manual for the bike along with a ton of other info..like the full build sheet when it was restored in 94'. And yes the guy I bought it from provided me with the starting instuctions. I guess I just have to look at this like a simple engine rather than my 09 Fatbob...technology has changed a bit... I'll work on it tomorrow and report back on what I find.

Panz4ever: I love the "PanPorn" comment!! I'll get a few more pics posted in a couple days. Bought the bike from a great guy in Virgina. This bike has all the correct cylinder/case numbers with a great paint job and some nice chrome. One question that I would like answered is "are the three chrome "seargent" stripes on the back fender how it came from the factory in 51?" I have looked at many pics and some have them and some don't. I'm guesing it was an option. Just wondering.

BTW: I can't wait till some warm weather rolls around here in northern Indiana!!!
Quickdraw... just a thought and take it for what it is worth. Be careful about saying your scoot has been restored. In the AMCA world that can dig you a lot of unfilled holes. Without going to Palmers and the small pic you posted it is a bit difficult to say what is correct/or not. One thing i can tell you is that the 3 stripes on the *** end are not correct for 51 models; that was only used for 49/50 and was NOT an option for 51. And from first look I would say the paint is not correct as well. Chrome components I would have to go to Palmers. And there is the whole thing about fasteners finishes (chrome, cad, parkerized) that can drive a sane man to the limit...


At any rate she is a beaut and will be a good rider once you get the fuel problem worked out. Think I would look at the float bowl first...

Glad you have a manual. If you do not have Palmers Guide, take a look at getting it. Think it is now in reproduction. Was not being produced for a while and prices were absolutely stupidly high. In the old iron world he is considered the last word even with some of the mistakes in the book. Definitely worth owning now that you have stepped back in time...
 

Last edited by panz4ever; Feb 18, 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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