My 64 blows oil out the front exhaust and no one can figure out why, the head and cylinder where checked out and everything is to spec, however when I removed the intake manifold I found oil in both front and rear heads intake ports, can the problem be with the rear head ?? yet it doesn't smoke. The other problem I have which might be related is I can't shut the primary oiler, the adjustment needle valve is fully seated and yet the oil pores out the primary drain, I removed all the check valves from the oil pump (cast iron pump) and blew them out and still can't stop it from oiling, however I did stop the engine from sumping, as long as I've owned her, since 1966, she's sumped. could this all be related to the oil blowing problem. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Subwayjoe

 

About the only way it can get into the intake tract is for it to come in through the valve guides.If you are running seals,you may have a problem with them riding with the valve and acting like a pump forcing oil down around the valve stem.If you aren't running seals and all is in good shape in the cylinder,your valve to guide fit is loose.

I would suggest that you do a leak down and compression test to determine the state of ring and valve sealing .Good luck

 

I did a compression check and got 52 lb front cyl and 40 lb rear, Im not familiar on how to do a leak down test ?, I still feel the inability to adjust the primary chain oiler has something related as they both happened at the same time, the other thing I noticed is the spark plugs show they are rich (black soot) not oil soaked as you would expect. not too much smoke comming out of front pipe, but the oil actually is dripping out of the front strait pipe. before I did the compression test I made sure the push rods turned freely insuring the valves are closed. any other ideas ?? Subwayjoe

 

Who did the top end. I am going with seals bad and oil leaking past valves and dumping out on top of pistons.

If you overtightened the primary adjustment needle on the pump you could have screwed up the needle (easy fix...buy new one) or damaged the seat where the needle sits (not easy fix). The adjustment needle for the primary chain merely restricts the flow of oil being allowed to be by passed and dumped on the primary to keep it lubed (the old half-dollar spot on the ground). Have you pulled the primary, started the motor and watched to see that oil is/is not coming over to your primary? It would seem that if you cannot get any adjustment on the needle, there should be alot of oil on the ground of the primary because nothing is stopping it from being diverted.

How old is the pump? When was the last time you checked to see if the ball for the by pass was seated properly. Seen guys make a tool using a welding rod with a check ball welded to it and then using some lapping compound and gently going over the seat in the pump to ensure the ball seats properly. And confirm you have the correct spring and ball?

Guess an easy way (bit of time involved though) to determine if the pump is causing problem would be to disassemble pump and put on a new body. Hardest part is getting the c-clip off and making sure you do not shove the shaft in and have the keys fall off. When I pulled mine for some gasket replacement I pulled the cam chest cover as well to make sure I didn't screw up and could keep the keys on the shaft.

 

Joe - I don't think you have enough compression to run properly. Compression may be leaking past valves or rings. To check rings, cycle through a compression check, let it go through compression check at least 2 cycles, record the number. Add a tablespoon of oil and repeat your compression check. Bad rings will have a large difference in compression reading, bad compression rings would indicate worn oil rings resulting in oil getting on top side of piston and going out through head. If compression numbers are similar, look at your valve guides. AMPCO bronze guides are an easy enough fix if the compression check works out. Sooty plugs can be carb jetting or oil burning, get the oil problem fixed first.

 

The valves do not have seals , Valves guides and Rings are new( less than 100 miles) and done by Dudey's Basement, Long Island N.Y.
The needle on the oil pump is not damaged, I took out both checks and springs, flushed the ports and scrubbed them with a small bottle brush, I even installed the needle without the locknut to make sure it is seating. This corrected the oil sumping but the chain oiler is still pouring oil.

 

Doesn't sound like your new rings are sealing, also I think you need a minimum of 90psi with not more than 30psi beetween the two cylinders.

Low compression seems to be indicating a ring issue if the heads were rebuilt. Chrome rings usually take longer to break in, moly rings just requires getting it out and under a load, high gear low RPM to mid RPM at wide open throttle a few times to seat the rings. The load will expand the rings and scrub in the seal.

I know you don't want to hear this but, I purchased a new set of NOS HD pistons and a strange set of rings. Installed them anyway and had about the same problem you are describing. Soaked the mufflers with oil before pulling it back down. Found the rings could be twisted like a pretzel without breaking. IMO I bought a box of NOS pistons with the NOS rings swapped for soft Made In China Rings. Tore it down, replaced with Hastings rings, problem solved.

 

I redid the compression test and this is the result


Front cyl 52 without oil == 70 with oil
Rear cyl 40 " --- 100 ''

these results indicate the problem is in the rear, but the oil is comming out the front cylinder

 

Joe- Either way you don't have enough compression to run effeciently. Either your valves are not fully sealed closed which would indicate a incorrect pushrod adjustment or a bad valve job, or the rings are letting compression past the top to the bottom.

Something is leaking down compression, The oil you used to retest compression seems to be helping to seal what the rings are not and it seems the oil did very well on the rear cylinder. I don't know how much you have run this but I imagine you have excessive crankcase pressure blowing by the rings into the crankcase looking to push oil out anywhere it can. Not sure if it is possible but, the front cylinder head angle is canted more towards the exhaust valve and if the rocker area is flooded with oil it may be pushed down the valve guide with excessive crankcase pressure. If you are sure the valves are adjusted properly, and the valve guides are in good shape, and the valves are sealing good, we are most likely back to the rings.

Are you sure the heads are in good shape?
Are you sure the valves are adjusted providing your best opportunity to seal valves and make compression? - Solid lifters should spin freely at bottom of cam circle

If you pull the cylinders to replace the rings, you must hone the cylinder walls again. You must have a good cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls with new rings or the rings will not scrub in and never seal (could have been the problem this time). And the cylinder must not be oversize for the ring after honing, Use cylinder bore gages and check ring end gap before assembly.


If yes to above, you need to reconsider everything done to prove the following;
1 - Cylinder wall was honed properly
2 - Piston diameter matches bore diameter
3 - Ring diameter matches cylinder diameter
4 - Ring widths match piston ring grooves
5 - Good quality compression rings installed in correct orientation per supplier direction
6 - Good quality oil control rings are installed in correct orientation per supplier
7 - Be sure to compress rings while sliding cylinder over piston, do not break a ring.

 

Joe - You may want to pull the timing plug and Kick it over a couple revolutions with the key off. Maybe you can hear and confirm the blow-by throught he timing hole. Ask someone to place their thumb over the timing hole while you kick the rear cylinder up and over, excessive blowby might create pressure at the timing plug and they may feel it on their thumb.