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What your saying makes sence, do you think the crankcase pressure could be causing the primary chain oiler to pour oil excessively, even with the adjustment needle fully seated. I really appreciate the time you've taken to address my problem. Joe
I knew your compression was low but could not find my spec. However the rise in pressure with the application oil during your compression check indicates your problem is the rings. Waste of time to do a blow down. While running, oil is going by rings and also so much blow-by is causing other bottom end problems with oil control due to so muck crank case pressure. Realize it takes a little while for rings to seat in but with accurate machining for diameter control and honing for ring seating should be better then what you got. I can see a small reduction in compression but not all this lack of oil control. Appears someone did a very sorry rebuild and tolerance checking. Surprised you are not hearing piston slap. If you look close you can probably see the crank case moving in and out as it runs? .. just kidding but you would if you had a thick rubber diaphram over the timing port.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jan 15, 2013 at 07:04 AM.
I neglected to tighten a timing plug once on a perfectly good running motor. It fell out while I was riding and blew oil everywhere. When the motor is running there is a constant slight pressure and vacuum with each rise and fall of the cylinders but...there is not that much pressure. Also the primary oiler is just a seat screw on the pump and drips on the chain, sounds like you have alot more than that getting into the primary. I would not be surprised to hear the crank seal behind the compensator sprocket in the primary drive has been pushed out by excessive crankcase pressure.
"you need a minimum of 90psi with not more than 30psi difference beetween the two cylinders" so at a minimum 90 PSI and ok if you have the other upt to 120 PSI. Personally I would ike to see both at 120 PSI minimum and not more than 10% difference.
I don't know why but I keep thinking of Jimi Hendrix and Hey Joe....
Let me bring you up to date, after I repeated to compression test with the oil in the cyl. I loosened all the push rods to make sure the valves were closing and repeated the compression test and got 95 lb. front and 80 lb. rear, I then started the engine and let it get hot and repeated the compression test and got 90 lb. front and 80 lb. rear. I then did a leakdown test @ 20 psi and had no leakage on the compression stoke in both front and rear cylinders. Then after the engine had cooled I repeated the compression test without adding any oil and got 100 lb front and 80 lb. rear. So I don't think the problem is in the top end, My next inspection is to remove the cam cover and check the breather valve timing and disassemble the oil pump. This engine is over oiling. I'll keep you up to date as to my progress. Thanks Joe
Be sure to always hold or lock the throttle wide open for accurate compression checks. If you do not it will take more cranking to get accurate ones and you really ought to get total between 5-7 compression strokes. With you compression ratio, what you got in C10 sounds good. Little too much spread but good enough and you know it's not broke in yet. Will just give it a better Harley idle.
Well I opened the Cam cover and removed the oil pump, all the timing marks were correct, I took apart the oil pump and could not find the inner gear key, I don't know if I lost it or it wasn't there, I fished around with a magnet and could not find it. The condition of the gears were good, with some marks on the ouside gears, If I still have the problem when I put it all back together its going to the shop, I'm 73 years old and can't keep this up. thanks for the suggestions. Joe
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