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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/ClutchFind answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.
Hoping for some help diagnosing a shifting problem on my 84 FXRS (Evo, wet clutch 5 speed with the clutch release arm, about 12k miles). Did a bunch of work this spring (upgraded swingarm bearings, new engine mounts and stabilizers, Bassani 2-1, rebuilt solenoid, and cleaned/replaced/powdercoated a bunch of stuff). I was planning to pull the inner primary to replace the leaking main shaft seal but got low on time so decided to save that for next winter, but not before pulling the clutch plates. Buttoned the clutch back up, checked pushrod adjustment, tightened up the primary chain a bit, etc. Now it’ll shift normally between 1st and 3rd but not into 4th. In 3rd, it has normal travel and spring pressure when pushing down, but very little travel and no spring pressure when pulling up. I know that normally a broken shift pawl spring does the opposite, but could it do this too? Any other thoughts? I tried adjusting the pawl, I’ve turned the adjuster about a half turn with no noticeable effect. I’ve also checked the linkage, no binding that I can see, and the same thing happens when I disconnect the linkage and try to shift using just the lever outside the tranny case.
The pawl needs to be adjusted when the trans is in third gear. You need equal free travel in both directions. Where you can see the pawl moving in the video (below) you can actually feel the pawl spring tension in the shifting arm at the transmission when adjusting. You can feel the free play in that shifter arm. While in third gear you want equal up and down movement. Sorry hard to describe and while it is easy to see in the video because the cover is removed, you can also adjust by feel and not have to remove the trans top cover. You want maximum but equal up and down free play. Removing the cover is probably the best way until you get the hang of how it is supposed to feel when properly adjusted.
Like described in the video, you want that offset cam on the pawl adjuster bolt to be on the upper half of the clock face and not the lower half. The upper half gives you more travel. Having the offset on the lower half cuts down on the amount of travel.
You will also be able to see if the spring is broken or not when you remove the cover, so that may be your best route.
Thanks a lot guys. Pulled the top cover today, nothing’s broken, the pawl was just pretty far out of adjustment. The video was very helpful, especially the part about the eccentric screw needing to be in the top position. It’s dialed in now.
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