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My 06 sporty is refusing to shift past second gear, unless I first push the shift lever down. In more detail, lets say Im riding in second gear, and pull the clutch then try to shift up. The shift lever will not move at all up. However if I release the clutch, gently push the shifter down, reengage the clutch and then try to shift up, it will then go to third absolutely fine. This exact same phenomenon happens when downshifting through the gears.
I would open the transmission to inspect but I don't currently have access to tools or a garage, so brainstorming is appreciated!
I don't know what your problem is but curiously going into 3rd gear on my bike either up or down is I can only describe as not silent that doesn't happen with any other gear change.
I'd check your shifter assembly, perhaps one of the springs has come off. Also, the "horseshoe" clip that holds the shift drum detent plate may have come off, or loose. I believe they can be replaced with a suitable "C" clip or maybe an "E" clip. Perhaps someone else knows the exact fix for the detent plate issue. You can access the shifter assembly by removing the primary cover and then the clutch hub/engine sprocket/primary chain assembly. You can check the shifter assembly and detent plate at the same time.
Unfortunately, your 2006 has a unitized case, no more removable transmission after 2003. To access the transmission requires a complete engine tear down to split the case halves. Good luck.
John
Last edited by John Harper; Jan 24, 2020 at 05:20 PM.
The external Shift Mechanism on an 04 XL 1200 is located OUTSIDE the crankcase and I am reasonably sure that the same goes for the 06 . You will need to pull the Primary Cover and remove the Clutch Basket gain access though. From the symptoms you describe I would think that the Return Spring (2) or one of the ratchet springs has broken and that you are having to re set the mechanism manually with your foot. The whole mechanism just pulls out of a locating socket in the crankcase so this could prove to be a relatively easy fix .
do you have a manual, prior work performed, stop light to stop light racer, heavy foot/forcing a shift up or down?
Sorry to post this
GENERAL
The rear compartment of the left and right crankcase halves
form the transmission case. Servicing of transmission components
requires removing the engine and disassembling (splitting)
the crankcase.
Last edited by 72 Ironhead XLH; Jan 24, 2020 at 06:05 PM.
do you have a manual, prior work performed, stop light to stop light racer, heavy foot/forcing a shift up or down?
Sorry to post this
GENERAL
The rear compartment of the left and right crankcase halves
form the transmission case. Servicing of transmission components
requires removing the engine and disassembling (splitting)
the crankcase.
Does anyone on here actually read the other posts in a thread before they jump in with their own take on things ? The OPs bike shifts through all the gears therefore there's nothing wrong with the gearbox. It's pretty obvious that the return spring on the external shift mechanism is at fault here . Access is gained by removing the clutch basket and there is no need to be splitting the crankcase at this stage . Sometimes I wonder why I bother with this forum at all .
Does anyone on here actually read the other posts in a thread before they jump in with their own take on things ? The OPs bike shifts through all the gears therefore there's nothing wrong with the gearbox. It's pretty obvious that the return spring on the external shift mechanism is at fault here . Access is gained by removing the clutch basket and there is no need to be splitting the crankcase at this stage . Sometimes I wonder why I bother with this forum at all .
one would think that all the information would be needed to make the correct response fix the problem.
Agreed , but if one chooses to diagnose a mechanical fault by presenting a description of the symptoms to an internet forum rather than physically investigating, then one can expect nothing more than speculative replies . The external shift mechanism on a Sportster is the same design as countless other bikes and a broken return spring best matches the reported behaviour of the shift lever . Whether I'm right in this assertion remains to be seen but it is always best practice to persue the least complicated solution before pulling out the entire engine and splitting the crankcases.
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