Clutch Turmoil
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2005
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From:
Clutch Turmoil
Hey all
Im looking for some advice to help me remedy why my new street bob's clutch wont engauge. Ive been getting some good suggestions in the dyna folder but so far none have worked. Heres my scenario:
I changed out my stock 10" ape hangers to a drag bar with a 6" riser. In doing so i changed out the clutch cable to the correct length needed for the swap. All else went as planned, but when the bike is put into gear and the clutch lever pulled in the clutch doesnt engauge and the bike wont move (still held in place by the gears). Now ive had the damn transmission cover off atleast 6 times to check, and check again and again that the ball and ramp mechanism is correct. The ***** are in place. The cable is hooked correctly. The clutch is adjusted to factory spec. there is no possibility of wear as the bike has 1 mile on it. With the tranny cover and derby cover off you can see the clutch pack moving back and fourth as you pull in the lever, but its as if the clutch isnt getting enough of a stroke to engauge. One thing that i noticed is the oil slinger on the tranny side can be pulled out if i wanted to, what engauges this to spin it? Could that be the problem? The dealer says that the ball and ramp mechanism isnt 100% correct, but i just done see how it cant be. Im doing this per the service manual to a Tee. Any advice is apprecisted as i do not want to have to trailer my new bike back to the dealer just to have them fix a stuipd problem like this.
Thanks,
MaineHD
Im looking for some advice to help me remedy why my new street bob's clutch wont engauge. Ive been getting some good suggestions in the dyna folder but so far none have worked. Heres my scenario:
I changed out my stock 10" ape hangers to a drag bar with a 6" riser. In doing so i changed out the clutch cable to the correct length needed for the swap. All else went as planned, but when the bike is put into gear and the clutch lever pulled in the clutch doesnt engauge and the bike wont move (still held in place by the gears). Now ive had the damn transmission cover off atleast 6 times to check, and check again and again that the ball and ramp mechanism is correct. The ***** are in place. The cable is hooked correctly. The clutch is adjusted to factory spec. there is no possibility of wear as the bike has 1 mile on it. With the tranny cover and derby cover off you can see the clutch pack moving back and fourth as you pull in the lever, but its as if the clutch isnt getting enough of a stroke to engauge. One thing that i noticed is the oil slinger on the tranny side can be pulled out if i wanted to, what engauges this to spin it? Could that be the problem? The dealer says that the ball and ramp mechanism isnt 100% correct, but i just done see how it cant be. Im doing this per the service manual to a Tee. Any advice is apprecisted as i do not want to have to trailer my new bike back to the dealer just to have them fix a stuipd problem like this.
Thanks,
MaineHD
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 14,496
Likes: 156
From:
RE: Clutch Turmoil
Reading your post you state "but when the bike is put into gear and the clutch lever pulled in the clutch doesnt engauge and the bike wont move "
It should DIS engage and the bike should roll fairly easy. A few things that are obvious but worth mentioning here.
Did you readjust the free play in the cable with the adjuster to give you the necessary 1/16" at the lever after you adjusted the clutch itself ( which shouldn't have been necessary in the first place) and are you sure the "C" clip that holds the ball ramp is snapped into the groove in the cover properly to hold the ramp in place. Either of which could cause this problem. ALL the 3 ***** still in place and not missing one?
Have you tried this proceedure yet?... https://www.hdforums.com/m_70839/tm.htm
It should DIS engage and the bike should roll fairly easy. A few things that are obvious but worth mentioning here.
Did you readjust the free play in the cable with the adjuster to give you the necessary 1/16" at the lever after you adjusted the clutch itself ( which shouldn't have been necessary in the first place) and are you sure the "C" clip that holds the ball ramp is snapped into the groove in the cover properly to hold the ramp in place. Either of which could cause this problem. ALL the 3 ***** still in place and not missing one?
Have you tried this proceedure yet?... https://www.hdforums.com/m_70839/tm.htm
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 222
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From:
RE: Clutch Turmoil
TC,
Yes, i tried you adjustment proceedure from your post "clutch adjustment by the book". I guess, then the clutch isnt DISengaging. Im POSITIVE that the ***** are all there and correctly in place. Also the c-clip is fully in the groove. I originally adjusted the clutch, because the first cable i bought was too short and i had no slack in the handle, even with the cable fully collapsed. so i went and got a cable aprox. 4" longer and it fits perfect. But now that its been adjusted once. It has to be done again i assume to fit the new cable and get it back into spec. Do you have any ideas on the oil slinger and if it is held in place by anything or if its keyed? It seems to spin freely in the pushrod and can be sild in and out of the transmission. Because of this i dont see how it spins, unless friction and inertia gets it moving. Like i said i can see the clutch moving in and out through the derby hole, but its not fully working as it wont disengage.
Thanks
Yes, i tried you adjustment proceedure from your post "clutch adjustment by the book". I guess, then the clutch isnt DISengaging. Im POSITIVE that the ***** are all there and correctly in place. Also the c-clip is fully in the groove. I originally adjusted the clutch, because the first cable i bought was too short and i had no slack in the handle, even with the cable fully collapsed. so i went and got a cable aprox. 4" longer and it fits perfect. But now that its been adjusted once. It has to be done again i assume to fit the new cable and get it back into spec. Do you have any ideas on the oil slinger and if it is held in place by anything or if its keyed? It seems to spin freely in the pushrod and can be sild in and out of the transmission. Because of this i dont see how it spins, unless friction and inertia gets it moving. Like i said i can see the clutch moving in and out through the derby hole, but its not fully working as it wont disengage.
Thanks
Banned
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 14,496
Likes: 156
From:
RE: Clutch Turmoil
Just a few things again...
The oil slinger will do what it is intended to do as long as it's there, no problem there.
Did you work the clutch handle 3 or so times before adjusting it to center the ***** in the ramp mechanism after you reassembled it.
The adjustment in the clutch pac... how far did you back it out when you adjusted it, should be in the area of 1/2 to 3/4 closer to 1/2 for more seperation when you pull the clutch in. If you are not seperating the plates enough, you can readjust the clutch to 1/2 turn out when doing the adjustment for more seperation. That should do it.
Also the "by the book" adjustment isn't the one I posted above. Give that a try, it eliminates a few areas where you could have a problem normally.
The oil slinger will do what it is intended to do as long as it's there, no problem there.
Did you work the clutch handle 3 or so times before adjusting it to center the ***** in the ramp mechanism after you reassembled it.
The adjustment in the clutch pac... how far did you back it out when you adjusted it, should be in the area of 1/2 to 3/4 closer to 1/2 for more seperation when you pull the clutch in. If you are not seperating the plates enough, you can readjust the clutch to 1/2 turn out when doing the adjustment for more seperation. That should do it.
Also the "by the book" adjustment isn't the one I posted above. Give that a try, it eliminates a few areas where you could have a problem normally.
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