A Question Regarding Clutch Adjustment
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
A Question Regarding Clutch Adjustment
I've read several threads here that explains how to do the clutch adjustment.
But I have 1 clarifying question... The instructions indicate to back out the adjustment screw (under the derby cover) 1/2 to 1 turn after it's been seated. But what exactly will the difference be if, for example, I back it out 5/8 vs 1 full turn?
Reason I ask is because I want to have to pull the clutch level in a little farther before it engages. I don't really like the friction zone at the very end of the lever. I want it more in the middle of the lever. So would I need to back out the adjustment screw closer to 1/2 turn or closer to 1 full turn to accomplish my goal?
But I have 1 clarifying question... The instructions indicate to back out the adjustment screw (under the derby cover) 1/2 to 1 turn after it's been seated. But what exactly will the difference be if, for example, I back it out 5/8 vs 1 full turn?
Reason I ask is because I want to have to pull the clutch level in a little farther before it engages. I don't really like the friction zone at the very end of the lever. I want it more in the middle of the lever. So would I need to back out the adjustment screw closer to 1/2 turn or closer to 1 full turn to accomplish my goal?
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
Basically it gives more time between adjustments for wear. Since the lever is adjusted to about 1/16" free play the difference between 5/8-1 turn at the clutch will have the same amount of free play as the lever sets the clearance at the clutch pushrod. If wear happens and no longer have the 1/16 at the lever it's telling you it's time to adjust. Even though you've just run out of clearance on the lever at this point the clutch adjuster screw in the pack will still have clearance and not be loading the pushrod at the 1 turn loose setting. The 5/8 turn loose, buy the time clearance in the lever is gone, so will the clearance in the pushrod adjuster.
If you want the release point to change on the lever, all you can do is add more free slack at the lever. This way it will release sooner the the grip, but overall clutch disengagement will be less, with possible creeping and clunky shifting.
Ron
If you want the release point to change on the lever, all you can do is add more free slack at the lever. This way it will release sooner the the grip, but overall clutch disengagement will be less, with possible creeping and clunky shifting.
Ron
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 373
Likes: 26
From: Virginia
I am no expert, but if you want a larger friction zone, turn the adjuster screw out more. The "typical" setting is backing the screw out 1/2 turn. Backing out the screw 1 full turn is generally the setting motor police use. It gives you the largest friction zone. If you use your friction zone a lot at slow speeds, try backing the screw out 3/4 turn. That is what I use. My clutch disengages at almost the grip. So far it has been perfect for me.
Also, the SM says to turn the screw in until resistance is felt. It does not say turn until seated. This is a big difference.
Lastly, make sure your scoot is cold when making the adjustments.
Also, the SM says to turn the screw in until resistance is felt. It does not say turn until seated. This is a big difference.
Lastly, make sure your scoot is cold when making the adjustments.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
Update
I thought I would provide an update for those who are interested...
Using the service manual as a guide, I attempted to adjust my clutch last night. But after 4 attempts, I just couldn't get it right. So today I did more reading here on the forums, and I came across a great post on VTF by a guy named Harris. Ver good detailed instructions that included the specification that the bike must be at ambient temperature when doing the adjustment. Well I think that did the trick. I went home tonight and gave it another shot, and this time it turned out perfect!
I backed the adjustment pushrod about 7/8 turn. That seems to give me a perfect friction zone for my traffic-infested driving. Engine power begins to engage at about an inch from the bars, and is fully engaged by about 7/8's lever travel. So there's lots of friction zone, which is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks all for your help.
Using the service manual as a guide, I attempted to adjust my clutch last night. But after 4 attempts, I just couldn't get it right. So today I did more reading here on the forums, and I came across a great post on VTF by a guy named Harris. Ver good detailed instructions that included the specification that the bike must be at ambient temperature when doing the adjustment. Well I think that did the trick. I went home tonight and gave it another shot, and this time it turned out perfect!
I backed the adjustment pushrod about 7/8 turn. That seems to give me a perfect friction zone for my traffic-infested driving. Engine power begins to engage at about an inch from the bars, and is fully engaged by about 7/8's lever travel. So there's lots of friction zone, which is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks all for your help.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
Ever notice how much more lever play you have when the bike is hot, compared to cold? It's major different. For best results an overnight cool down before adjusting is the most accurate method.
Ron
Ron
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