Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Idaho Falls
Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
A few posts ago, I asked what the general consensus was on automatic tensioners for the primary chain. Well, that post went in all sorts of directions, and since then, there does not appear to be any consensus on whether or not the tensioners are good or bad. So, until such time as a general agreement is reached, I'll stay with the manual (me) method.
According to the Service Manual for my Softail, the tolerance (range of motion) of the chain should be: 5/8 to 7/8" with the engine cold [that is upward (not total) free play], OR 3/8 to 5/8" with the engine hot [that is again upward (not total) free play].
Now I have two questions:
1) How do I measure upward (not total) free play (upward from what), and
2) To reduce the H-D shift clunk, I've read here in HDF that the free play should be a small as possible, so the lower tolerance is better than the upper tolerance. Is that correct? I use Red Line Shockproof Heavy in the transmission and Red Line MTL in the primary.
Would appreciate any and all help. BTW -- I do not have the 'Fix My Hog' DVD, just the Service Manual
According to the Service Manual for my Softail, the tolerance (range of motion) of the chain should be: 5/8 to 7/8" with the engine cold [that is upward (not total) free play], OR 3/8 to 5/8" with the engine hot [that is again upward (not total) free play].
Now I have two questions:
1) How do I measure upward (not total) free play (upward from what), and
2) To reduce the H-D shift clunk, I've read here in HDF that the free play should be a small as possible, so the lower tolerance is better than the upper tolerance. Is that correct? I use Red Line Shockproof Heavy in the transmission and Red Line MTL in the primary.
Would appreciate any and all help. BTW -- I do not have the 'Fix My Hog' DVD, just the Service Manual
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
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From:
RE: Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
when I adjusted the primary free play manually, I always adjusted as close to the closer limits. This is dictated by what I refer to as the steps in the bracket. After 25,000 miles I should little wear in the shoe. I just got tired of pulling my cover so I could do a really good job of adjusting my tension. I know I could do it through the inspection cover, but I also wanted to fully clean the primary when I adjusted the tension and inspect wear on the shoe. I did this about every 4th service to engine and primary or 12,000 miles. I would use a depth mic from the bottom inside edge of the inner primary housing and measure to bottom mid point of the chain between the engine and clutch basket with the chain slack. Then measure again with the chain raised to find out if I needed to adjust.
I was ready to go the MOCO adjuster when I started reading and hearing about how it would rachet too tight. Then I started exploring the hydralic adjuster vs M6 and ended up with the M6 due partially to recommendations from other users on another more techy site than this one and my own research. I went the M6 because of flexability of the spring tension verses rigidity. Compare it to the tensioner on a serpentine belt in your car. It allows slack for torq loads but keeps the tension applied to eliminate the slop.
It's understandable that there are many views on tensioners. Some are purists and believe that the engine should stay all MOCO. My opinion on that, why did MOCO come out with an auto-adjuster? There must have been a need, but like all new products, don't buy the first model year. Wait until the bugs are worked out. M6 has been around for a long time and a lot of users out there. If it wasn't any good, word would be out. You always hear when there is a bad product, never hear when something is good.
I was ready to go the MOCO adjuster when I started reading and hearing about how it would rachet too tight. Then I started exploring the hydralic adjuster vs M6 and ended up with the M6 due partially to recommendations from other users on another more techy site than this one and my own research. I went the M6 because of flexability of the spring tension verses rigidity. Compare it to the tensioner on a serpentine belt in your car. It allows slack for torq loads but keeps the tension applied to eliminate the slop.
It's understandable that there are many views on tensioners. Some are purists and believe that the engine should stay all MOCO. My opinion on that, why did MOCO come out with an auto-adjuster? There must have been a need, but like all new products, don't buy the first model year. Wait until the bugs are worked out. M6 has been around for a long time and a lot of users out there. If it wasn't any good, word would be out. You always hear when there is a bad product, never hear when something is good.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
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From:
RE: Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
This is what I use to measure the free play:
Primary Chain Tension Gauge
Works great and easy to measure the free play through the inspection cover.
Primary Chain Tension Gauge
Works great and easy to measure the free play through the inspection cover.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 99
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From: Gilbert, AZ
RE: Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
What a great invention......I just saw this after trying to figure out how to do it without the tool and it is a major PITA!!! Thank you for the link, I just ordered mine!!
ORIGINAL: ToBeFrank
This is what I use to measure the free play:
Primary Chain Tension Gauge
Works great and easy to measure the free play through the inspection cover.
This is what I use to measure the free play:
Primary Chain Tension Gauge
Works great and easy to measure the free play through the inspection cover.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,537
Likes: 21
RE: Tolerance and Procedure for Primary Chain
Believe it or not, I use a steel rule, and I get the tightest spot on the chain, and push UP on the rule, while measuring the free-play....
Very effective, and accurate (for not removing the Outer).
Most tech's I see use the "Finger Lift" method......
I'm not that good where my cockbeater is calibrated to within 0.1 mm....
Makes me wonder where I need to get that calibrated hand though????????
Very effective, and accurate (for not removing the Outer).
Most tech's I see use the "Finger Lift" method......
I'm not that good where my cockbeater is calibrated to within 0.1 mm....
Makes me wonder where I need to get that calibrated hand though????????
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