3.5 Turns For Clutch Adjustment
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RE: 3.5 Turns For Clutch Adjustment
ORIGINAL: Square Dude
Guess what? After thinking about your post and my problem I decided I would pull the derby one more time and "un-adjust" it an additional full turn. Mine is now 1 3/4 out from lightly seated! Rode it just now and it pulls real good, no slipping. I still can't get it into gear except by killing the engine and restarting but that doesn't bother me that much. Mine has always had a problem with that but as the original clutch wore down it got easier. Maybe this one will do that also. This looks to me like warped plates. How about you? I am going to send Barnett another email now.
Guess what? After thinking about your post and my problem I decided I would pull the derby one more time and "un-adjust" it an additional full turn. Mine is now 1 3/4 out from lightly seated! Rode it just now and it pulls real good, no slipping. I still can't get it into gear except by killing the engine and restarting but that doesn't bother me that much. Mine has always had a problem with that but as the original clutch wore down it got easier. Maybe this one will do that also. This looks to me like warped plates. How about you? I am going to send Barnett another email now.
One thing I have seen people screw up is that when they adjust the ball and ramp (the allen cross rod with the lock nut), the ramp on the cable side is moved forward in the housing as if the cable was pulled. They loosened the cable, but don't catch this. THis results in a ball and ramp overextended (at the end of it's throw) and they can't figure out why it's all jazzed up. If you removed the stock clutch, you know it's all out of the last plate you pulled was a fiber that was half as wide as the others and 2 spring (concave - convex) rings. I have used Barnett clutches with good results in the past. I would check what I stated above.
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RE: 3.5 Turns For Clutch Adjustment
Per my last post I finally discovered that the bottom of the clutch basket was worn too. I took one of the old steel rings, ground off the cogs on its inner circle and dropped it into the basket first. Then I inserted the narrow friction ring and the damper spring parts, then alternated the friction and steel rings out to the top. That makes the bottom end steel although it is not anchored (but neither are the damper spring parts). The clutch adjusts properly now (3/4 turn out from lightly seated). It holds good and goes into gear easily. Easier than it has in a long time. If I could buy a clutch pressure plate with a steel face on it I believe the OEM clutch would last a long time. I think the ring I modified and installed in the hub first takes up the worn space and restores the clutch pack to its normal position. I notice that some of the better replacement clutches use steel "spacers" at both ends of the clutch pack to eliminate wear to the aluminum parts of the clutch. What do you think?
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RE: 3.5 Turns For Clutch Adjustment
How about checking for servicibility first? I know guys with 150k plus miles on stock clutch baskets. Regarding the 1/2 wide disk and the concave/convex rings - are you certain that was in correctly and nothing was bound up or laying incorrrectly? Personally I always scrap those 3 parts and simply install a full width fiber disk.
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RE: 3.5 Turns For Clutch Adjustment
Thanks for your input. Well, I'm not sure what you mean by checking for serviceability. All I know is that both ends of my clutch are worn and I don't dog it, never did a wheelie or a burn-out in my life. I change the fluids frequently and have checked the adjustments often. I am an ex-auto mechanic and have the manual. I do see in the Rivera Pro ad where they mention the "Notoriously weak H-D clutch" and where Barnett seems to make something of their clutch having steel spacers at both ends of the pack to prevent wear on the aluminum parts. Personally, I find it sad that H-D would run aluminum surfaces on the friction discs. You know the only reasons have to be "cheap" and "sell more parts and service". There's just no reason to run aluminum on friction discs. It's like running aluminum disc brake rotors! Or, aluminum flywheel and pressure plate on a car. Just cheap.
Yes, the narrow ring and damper spring parts were assembled correctly. By adding the steel spacer to the bottom of the pack I have shimmed the pack out closer to the pressure plate. Now, the pack comes out even with the end of the shell like it should and the pressure plate applies good force to it. The adjustment is right-on and it rode good this morning. Interesting, your removing the narrow ring and the damper spring. I believe that damper helps spread the rings apart when the clutch is disengaged which helps shifting into gear at idle. That as well as dampening the shock of engagement.
Thanks again.
Yes, the narrow ring and damper spring parts were assembled correctly. By adding the steel spacer to the bottom of the pack I have shimmed the pack out closer to the pressure plate. Now, the pack comes out even with the end of the shell like it should and the pressure plate applies good force to it. The adjustment is right-on and it rode good this morning. Interesting, your removing the narrow ring and the damper spring. I believe that damper helps spread the rings apart when the clutch is disengaged which helps shifting into gear at idle. That as well as dampening the shock of engagement.
Thanks again.
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