Primary Problems?
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Stage II
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Pickerington, Ohio
Primary Problems?
Could use an experienced ear to help me narrow down a problem I'm having with my '05 FLHR. There's a rattling/knocking sound coming from either the front of the primary or bottom of the engine. I took a video, but I don't think I can upload it here. I was able to upload to facebook though if someone cares to help.
Bottom line, I don't have the money to take it to a shop, so I need to attempt the repair myself if it's the primary. If it's more of an engine problem then I'm just screwed.
Any advice would be much appreciated... not used to this being broke all the time ****.
Bottom line, I don't have the money to take it to a shop, so I need to attempt the repair myself if it's the primary. If it's more of an engine problem then I'm just screwed.
Any advice would be much appreciated... not used to this being broke all the time ****.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 7
From: Indianapolis
Certainly sounds and looks like a compensator issue. I would agree with the previous poster though, start by adjusting the chain tensioner. Need to have about 5/8" deflection in the middle of the upper part of the chain when COLD.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
You need 5/8 to 3/4 deflection one direction at the tightest point. I have never tied what your are doing. Be real careful. Looks too tight. Also use a scale off the face of the inner cover face to make sure the sprockets are in line. Sometimes, people get the spacer out of correct position on the front sprocket. Harley use to have about 10 different thickness ones but went to one with more quality machine control. Mine got out of alignment when the alternator spling stripped out and the face wore .040. With only .03 tolerance between the links, any more, the sprocket teeth will nip the sides of the links. It normal to have enough run out to use the total chain free play tolerance up. The chain wears uneven and will be different lengths if you measure between say ever 8 links. Your manual tensioner is the best thing made. Once correct, it truly require little maintenance. Mine really never change in 40K. The primary even when right is pretty crude and the compensator face that smooth the engine impulses are cast surfaces and make a little racket at idle. It goes away when under power and if it does, then it's OK. Use a two ear Harbour freight stethoscope on the engine and primary before taking stuff apart. Mine sounds like a rotary tiller in a gravel bed at idle but when you put the stethoscope on it, all is well like a well oiled sewing machine.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 26, 2014 at 08:32 PM.
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