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Since the engine and trany are bolted together on an FLT it's hard to change the center to center shaft dimensions With the engine and trany set up on the 4 speeds one can easily make the prim belt looser It involves slotting the inner prim mounting holes and machining the inner prim Oring groove so you have a small amount of movement of the trany and inner primary forward
I've used 3" BDL open primaries on the last 4 builds. They are awesome! You lose a bunch of weight on the left side, don't have lost power through all of the rotating mass of a compensated, double row chain, primary oil, and all metal primary. They are easy to work on because everything is open! The only downside is kickstand placement, which is what I was looking for when I ran across this thread....
BDL is way stronger than the Ultima, and I had no trouble running a 3" behind a built 127". No need to run an outboard bearing support. That's why on the Ultima they are way too wide on the left; 3 3/8" belt, bearing support, etc. I have only run 1 Ultima, and it was way too sketchy, even on a stock 88". I wouldn't run one of those again.
I like the Primo belt drives the most, but they are way too expensive given they aren't any more stout than the BDL.
How are you guys keeping the stock mounted kickstand from hitting the inner primary or belt? I am trying to avoid running the kickstand behind the primary like I've seen on some.
The other bikes I built with open primaries, I weld on the tab to run the kickstand underneath the inner primary. However, it's near impossible to figure out the geometry of the weld to keep it from leaning too far, or standing straight up. I know there's someone on here that knows what I'm talking about and has a solution!
real easy, you need a side stand stop designed for this,...
made by various companys & hundreds on ebay, this is on my Shovel.
they range from $10-$25.
I've used those in the past, but they don't seem to last very long. I've had them on a couple of shovelheads, and I can't imagine that the 127 I'm going to run wouldn't shake it to death.
I've used this before as well, but can't remember how they lie when up, especially with an open primary. It would be an expensive lesson if it still hits the belt or the bottom of the inner primary plate.
I've used those in the past, but they don't seem to last very long. I've had them on a couple of shovelheads, and I can't imagine that the 127 I'm going to run wouldn't shake it to death.
I've used this before as well, but can't remember how they lie when up, especially with an open primary. It would be an expensive lesson if it still hits the belt or the bottom of the inner primary plate.
I have used them for the last 10 or so years without a problem other than i forgot to loctite the set screw & it backed out once, but a drop of loctite sorted it,
it cant shake to bits as its basically exactly the same as the stock lug with a small addition for the aduster screw,
so how did yours 'not last long' ?.. theres nothing to go wrong with them or break however big the motor is unless as I say, you didn't use loctite.
the short stands were originally developed for lower chops & specials that require moving the stand to the rear of the primary which can make the whole bike unstable at times,
the one you put the link to probably would work, but without the locking lug the bike could roll off the stand like a lot of non Harley type side stands can if on if parked uneven surfaces or on hills
Last edited by magnum45pete; Jan 1, 2022 at 02:00 PM.
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