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Drag pipe recommendation?

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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 06:25 AM
  #21  
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If you must run open drag pipes, buy a set of 1 3/4" X 39". These are the easiest to tune for stock to 88 cid. Though they are more expensive, a reverb technology or baffled system is best, and easiest to tune + more overall performance. They will compliment your carburetor and stock to mild cam.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:33 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by glidein wide
Drag pipes are named for drag racing !!!!
Just drop in the power cones if you want the drag pipes, no lollipops or welded washer on a bolt !!!
Then tune your carb to your new exhaust(air and fuel).
Ride-enjoy-repeat
I can Prove that good ole 1-3/4 Drags are best with Nothing , stuck into the Pipe!!! Including those nasty Cones
Ya gotta do some serious tuning, and make Compromises!
ie. Know Exactly what you are doing!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 10:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
I can Prove that good ole 1-3/4 Drags are best with Nothing , stuck into the Pipe!!! Including those nasty Cones
Ya gotta do some serious tuning, and make Compromises!
ie. Know Exactly what you are doing!
You are absolutely right. They can be done right. For the most part, most people don't have access to tuners who know what they are doing. Some of the ying yangs I've seen that were calling themselves tuners couldn't tune a lawnmower. While on a dyno, and after 3 runs each, I would start with 40" 1 3/4" and saw them off a 1/8th at a time until my torque and HP maxed out and dropped a tad. I could jet and time it back to peek. I would generally wind up between 38 1/2 to 39 1/4. For the bigger stroker motors a stepped system works better, 1 3/4 to 2 to 2 1/4. I'm lucky. I have access to a dyno and a good tuner.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:35 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AlCherry
You are absolutely right. They can be done right. For the most part, most people don't have access to tuners who know what they are doing. Some of the ying yangs I've seen that were calling themselves tuners couldn't tune a lawnmower. While on a dyno, and after 3 runs each, I would start with 40" 1 3/4" and saw them off a 1/8th at a time until my torque and HP maxed out and dropped a tad. I could jet and time it back to peek. I would generally wind up between 38 1/2 to 39 1/4. For the bigger stroker motors a stepped system works better, 1 3/4 to 2 to 2 1/4. I'm lucky. I have access to a dyno and a good tuner.
I have a Dyno Also....It is 1/4 Mile Long tho...Not too portable!!!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
I have a Dyno Also....It is 1/4 Mile Long tho...Not too portable!!!
Yup. Been there, done that. I like to get it close, and dial it on in at the track for local conditions. For the most part the tune on the dyno hits it without any further tuning on small displacement motors. Those folks with those monster gas and fuel stroker motors have to do serious tinkering.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 06:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
I can Prove that good ole 1-3/4 Drags are best with Nothing , stuck into the Pipe!!! Including those nasty Cones
Ya gotta do some serious tuning, and make Compromises!
ie. Know Exactly what you are doing!
Well then maybe that's what he should do if he has the patients, knowledge, money, dyno access. He probably doesn't if he's asking this type of question. He wants drags, noise, looks and some performance obviously. I do get your point, I was thinking he would be happy with the simple solution. IMHO
Also this was the first negative comment i've heard about the power cones....
 

Last edited by glidein wide; Jul 19, 2015 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:20 PM
  #27  
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So apparently Jireh no longer carries Cycle Shack. And J&P got them in stock, but was still out of stock on the mounting bracket. So I ordered the pipes and floorboard bracket from J&P, and got the mounting bracket and exhaust gasket/stud kit from Dennis Kirk. Pipes arrived today, with the receipt for both the pipes and the floorboard bracket... but no sign of the bracket anywhere in the box. Apparently they shipped separately, but there was no "1 of 2" or anything on the box for the pipes. Already spoke with customer service, and they said to let them know if they don't show up by Saturday... even though I put the order in last Saturday... just does not make sense thatbi would not have received the bracket yet. When I went to track the order with good ol' USPS, it says it's in Cedar Rapids, IA... which is what it said two days ago... so anyway, hopefully it comes tomorrow so I can get them installed before the weekend. Thanks for everyone's responses. Will post pics of them in the bike as soon as I get em on.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 04:46 PM
  #28  
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J&P should have sent you a "your order has shipped" email. it will show exactly what was shipped.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 07:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pjb
J&P should have sent you a "your order has shipped" email. it will show exactly what was shipped.
They did, but they shipped separately and only gave me one tracking number. Anyway, I got them on, but having trouble getting them to seal. Gonna double up the gaskets and use high-temp silicone. Also, should I be concerned that rear pipe is frighteningly close to the oil line?

 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 05:43 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 72_shovel
They did, but they shipped separately and only gave me one tracking number. Anyway, I got them on, but having trouble getting them to seal. Gonna double up the gaskets and use high-temp silicone. Also, should I be concerned that rear pipe is frighteningly close to the oil line?

Don't double the gaskets they will just blow out faster and use Permatex Ultra gray not the red ****. Trouble sealing is directly related to not being mounted or aligned right on the rear bracket , it's not uncommon to either have to bend it a little to tuck or raise the pipe a bit or add a washer or 2 between the bracket and the pipe on the T bolt to get everything clean and straight and from what I'm seeing in the picture that front pipes is off a bunch .

Don't be afraid to get in there and tweak things none of the aftermarket stuff bolts up true and straight out of the box.
 
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