timer/distributor question - with pic
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 905
Likes: 207
From: Minneapolis
timer/distributor question - with pic
I'm trying to learn how to deal with this timer on this genny shovel - it is a manual advance unit - I think I understand how the adjusting stud works - it lets you set the limit to counterclockwise rotation so you an set the advance at a stationary point - to retard the timing - it appears I just rotate the timer clockwise - the whole unit rotates though (except the stem/base which is bolted to the case - the timer plate is also not very precise - I can wiggle it around some - this changes the points gap - it looks like the points plate is held on by some flimsy flex washer that is held by the cover spring - is this right????? C'mon Harley - WTF - I'm thinkin my timer is broke or something - but this is my first genny shovel
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
Sounds, and Looks Right to me...
Precision would come from a Complete rebuild...Can't blame the Company for a unit that has lasted 40 years now can we??
My '68 ran just fine even if a bit "sloppy"..Course, I didn't use it for a DragBike.
BTW I'm pretty sure that the advance was intended to be cable driven via left handlebar worm!! Mine was anyway!
Precision would come from a Complete rebuild...Can't blame the Company for a unit that has lasted 40 years now can we??
My '68 ran just fine even if a bit "sloppy"..Course, I didn't use it for a DragBike.
BTW I'm pretty sure that the advance was intended to be cable driven via left handlebar worm!! Mine was anyway!
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 235
Likes: 98
From: Frederick, MD
The points/condenser base plate is held on by the wavy 3/4 circular spring which is held in place by the ends of the cover clip. When installed correctly, the base plate will be held firmly in place.
There are 2 'w' shaped spots on the wavy spring that must be positioned properly, with the tips of the cover clip right under the middle of the 'w'. The base plate will then be securely fastened.
There are 2 'w' shaped spots on the wavy spring that must be positioned properly, with the tips of the cover clip right under the middle of the 'w'. The base plate will then be securely fastened.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
The points/condenser base plate is held on by the wavy 3/4 circular spring which is held in place by the ends of the cover clip. When installed correctly, the base plate will be held firmly in place.
There are 2 'w' shaped spots on the wavy spring that must be positioned properly, with the tips of the cover clip right under the middle of the 'w'. The base plate will then be securely fastened.
There are 2 'w' shaped spots on the wavy spring that must be positioned properly, with the tips of the cover clip right under the middle of the 'w'. The base plate will then be securely fastened.
I think all that is in the Parts book, certainly in the service manual...
It used to be anyway!!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
running it full advance all the time is what was done back in the day except for starting
as race said they work like a timex watch takes a licking and keeps on ticking - you can convert it to a magnetic pickup instead of the points < much better starting and drive ability - the parts for that are not easy to find in OEM dont brake anything
when i re do a bobber like yours i use a china distributor and remove the point plate and the advancer as they are junk - i install in the housing with the gear a new cyn unit with the bearings and a dyna S trigger = that gives me a retarded starting and idle at stops and an automatic swing advance to engine speed as everything uses that today - you can re use your ignition coil if its 5.0 ohms as it should be
as race said they work like a timex watch takes a licking and keeps on ticking - you can convert it to a magnetic pickup instead of the points < much better starting and drive ability - the parts for that are not easy to find in OEM dont brake anything
when i re do a bobber like yours i use a china distributor and remove the point plate and the advancer as they are junk - i install in the housing with the gear a new cyn unit with the bearings and a dyna S trigger = that gives me a retarded starting and idle at stops and an automatic swing advance to engine speed as everything uses that today - you can re use your ignition coil if its 5.0 ohms as it should be
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,495
Likes: 3,705
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
FWIW, the 66-69 models came with an auto advance timer and not a manual advance unit. And has been pointed out the unit was designed for a left hand advance/retard that was wired through the handlebars. If you intend to use that you need to someone rig it so that it will not back off from full advance once it is running and you are going down the road.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
we used a spring back in the day as it advances towards the genny / it pops in the cable hole in the pin on the dizzys side
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 905
Likes: 207
From: Minneapolis
the manual (Clymer) makes it sound as though I can measure the degrees of retard I would set when turning the timer clockwise - but I see no marks to reference - the whole top turns and I do not see any stationary reference marks. Bike starts and runs great - idles nice with a super E - dont even need the enricher to start it and it is well below freezing here
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From: la la land jerzey
the carb float is too high or your jetting is off it should not start with out the choke if its tuned correctly
you need to look in the pre shovel book about setting the timing on that dizzy as it needs to be correct or you will not if blow a hole in one of the pistons - the hemi dome does not like pre ignition spark knocking
you need to look in the pre shovel book about setting the timing on that dizzy as it needs to be correct or you will not if blow a hole in one of the pistons - the hemi dome does not like pre ignition spark knocking