Wish I woulda Knowed you was doing that... I got a Set I did Years ago.. polished and Nice... I woulda Gladly Traded!!!

 

Yes, I would have traded, and you would have saved an original set. Oh well...

 

Right, it's like cutting down a ��. Once done can't turn back....

 

I still have a jig setup I made 35 plus years ago to correctly position new tabs on FL fork legs that guy's had cut down during the old chopper days, did a lot of that back in the day. Pics just reminded of that.

 

It has been a busy month, not all work, I flew down to Florida with my mother to make sure her winter place was OK, and spent a week there getting her all set up. Even though the locals thought it was freezing, days in the 50's and 60's were a lot better than the 20's in CT!

So now I thought I had everything I needed to reassemble the tranny, and dove right in, forgetting to take pictures until the easy stuff was done, and the gears were in place:



Then I put the starter gears on the main shaft.



I think I did it correctly, but as I got further into it, I discovered that the gears don't disengage. When I turn the input shaft the kicker shaft turns. Eventually the ramps on the gears jump and it goes back, but then it starts again. I fear they aren't staying released. What's up with that???

 

Next worked on the kicker cover. The Jim's kit came with an o-ring and a square seal. I used the square seal, and greased everything before assembly. The new bushings make it nice and tight, so I hope there won't be any more leaks from here. It was pretty bad before.



Inside the cover, the book says, with the spring engaged on it's anchor, put the gear pin at 7:00 and the flat at 12:00. There's no way to put the flat you see on the shaft at 12:00. I found out later that the older kick starter shafts had a flat but they did away with it with the flip out arm. I think I have it right. If anyone knows otherwise, let me know!

 

Now for the fun part, assembling the ratchet top and aligning the forks.

I didn't take a lot of pictures here, either. It was pretty straight forward, following the shop manual. One thing that was hard to see, is timing the shifter gears. The drum gear has a tooth that is notched at the end, called a short tooth. The ratchet gear has a timing mark that is just a slight chamfer between two teeth. They are hard to see, so I painted the edges of the teeth so I could see them and assemble the drum properly.



A big thank you to Johnjzjz for lending me his alignment tool, and a clever cut down sprocket that lets you remove the rod w/o needing to remove it every time. Installing the sprocket pulls the main gear over to where it needs to be.

 

First align the tool with the drum, using the old shift rod. That was spot on as arrived:



Then flip it over and put on the tranny case, capturing the 'top hats' on the shift forks:



I didn't take any pictures measuring clearance but the main shaft was OK. The countershaft was a little off, and here's where I discovered that the Jim's kit doesn't give you any shims. They only come in 0.007 and 0.014 thickness, and I have to replace one of my 0.014 shims with a 0.007 shim. If there was a 0.007 there I could have just removed it, and been done. Here is how the fork holder goes together, and my measurements; I stacked three or four feeler gages to fill the gap. They are supposed to be equal and 0.100-0.110 on the main shaft, and 0.080-0.090 on the countershaft:



So that's all for now, until I get a shim.

 

yea I will send you a few shims

 

I got the shims and pretty much finished the job today, thanks John

Both sides of the dog measure 0.087 now - perfection!



Now I can put the tranny together. Kickstarter end installed easily:



New Ray's O-ring spacer, and main seal installed: