Charging 'amps' explained?
Charging 'amps' explained?
I haven't found this info in any threads so i am asking the mechanics and experienced to teach me something. (got a funny feeling i am going to look really stupid for asking)
As a (line voltage) electrician I know that my wire size (AWG) is determined by how many amps i need. I've never heard of someone having to re-wire their bike with larger wires so can someone explain the how/why of the different charging systems? 18amp/22amp/32amp/38amp?
As a (line voltage) electrician I know that my wire size (AWG) is determined by how many amps i need. I've never heard of someone having to re-wire their bike with larger wires so can someone explain the how/why of the different charging systems? 18amp/22amp/32amp/38amp?
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 578
Likes: 522
From: Durango CO
The charging system must put out more amp than what your cycle uses. So if you have a powerful stereo with speakers front and rear and lots of lights then need an alternator that puts out high amps to compensate for what you are using. Otherwise your battery may die as your are riding down the road.
Cars and cycles all now have 12 volt electrical systems but alternators may put out different amounts off current.
Cars and cycles all now have 12 volt electrical systems but alternators may put out different amounts off current.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,154
Likes: 2,561
From: CT/FL
As a lineman you are dealing with miles of wire. On a bike the charging wire is only a few feet long at most, and is already 10 or 12 gauge. Plenty for any of the common bike charging systems.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 578
Likes: 522
From: Durango CO
Yea, as Joe was saying. The wires can handle more current than the OEM alternator can put out.
Electricity is not like water. A certain amount of water needs a certain amount of space. But with electricity the OEM wires can handle a lot more current. If you go to a really high output alternator the wires may get warm. Usually this is not an issue.
Electricity is not like water. A certain amount of water needs a certain amount of space. But with electricity the OEM wires can handle a lot more current. If you go to a really high output alternator the wires may get warm. Usually this is not an issue.
Last edited by Durango Dave; May 5, 2018 at 10:34 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 578
Likes: 522
From: Durango CO
AC or DC makes no difference whatsoever.
If you go into an electrical supply company asking for wire they will ask "How much amps?" and "How much voltage?" They will not ask if it's AC or DC because it makes no difference whatsoever.
If you need wire to handle high amps they will sell you large gauge wire.
If you need wire to handle high voltage they will sell you wire with thick insulation.
The wire will not specify "For AC only" (or DC only)
The equations for current, voltage and power do not take into account AC or DC because that doesn't make any difference.
If you go into an electrical supply company asking for wire they will ask "How much amps?" and "How much voltage?" They will not ask if it's AC or DC because it makes no difference whatsoever.
If you need wire to handle high amps they will sell you large gauge wire.
If you need wire to handle high voltage they will sell you wire with thick insulation.
The wire will not specify "For AC only" (or DC only)
The equations for current, voltage and power do not take into account AC or DC because that doesn't make any difference.
Last edited by Durango Dave; May 5, 2018 at 05:37 PM.
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Went to my CEU class after i posted this thread this morning. As soon as i sat down it hit me like a brick in the face. Doesn't really matter how many 'amps' the stator is putting out, it's only going as far as the battery and circuit breakers. The breakers will protect the wires and components downstream from overcurrent.
What is normal procedure on determining stator output? Do you calculate the draw on all electrical loads (extra lights, stereo, speakers, GPS etc.) and that tells you which stator/regulator to get? (i.e. 18amp? 22amp? 32amp?)
What is normal procedure on determining stator output? Do you calculate the draw on all electrical loads (extra lights, stereo, speakers, GPS etc.) and that tells you which stator/regulator to get? (i.e. 18amp? 22amp? 32amp?)
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
AC or DC makes no difference whatsoever.
If you go into an electrical supply company asking for wire they will ask "How much amps?" and "How much voltage?" They will not ask if it's AC or DC because it makes no difference whatsoever.
If you need wire to handle high amps they will sell you large gauge wire.
If you need wire to handle high voltage they will sell you wire with thick insulation.
The wire will not specify "For AC only" (or DC only)
The equations for current, voltage and power do not take into account AC or DC because that doesn't make any difference.
If you go into an electrical supply company asking for wire they will ask "How much amps?" and "How much voltage?" They will not ask if it's AC or DC because it makes no difference whatsoever.
If you need wire to handle high amps they will sell you large gauge wire.
If you need wire to handle high voltage they will sell you wire with thick insulation.
The wire will not specify "For AC only" (or DC only)
The equations for current, voltage and power do not take into account AC or DC because that doesn't make any difference.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 578
Likes: 522
From: Durango CO
Went to my CEU class after i posted this thread this morning. As soon as i sat down it hit me like a brick in the face. Doesn't really matter how many 'amps' the stator is putting out, it's only going as far as the battery and circuit breakers. The breakers will protect the wires and components downstream from overcurrent.
What is normal procedure on determining stator output? Do you calculate the draw on all electrical loads (extra lights, stereo, speakers, GPS etc.) and that tells you which stator/regulator to get? (i.e. 18amp? 22amp? 32amp?)
What is normal procedure on determining stator output? Do you calculate the draw on all electrical loads (extra lights, stereo, speakers, GPS etc.) and that tells you which stator/regulator to get? (i.e. 18amp? 22amp? 32amp?)