Shovelhead A place to talk about Shovelheads.

71 FLH Shovelhead

Old May 9, 2019 | 12:11 PM
  #1001  
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"....maybe I will just pay someone to do to the job. lol"
Really hope You don't, We like watching over Your shoulder here.
Besides..doing it Yourself knowing its done right..and to check condition of shoes and bearings etc.. Yourself.
Factory lug wrench gets them plenty tight.. and Racepres is spot on suggesting blue locktite.
Notice oversize lugs are available? The threaded part? Thats because of folks going to tight..stripping them.
In Your pics, looks like just maybe a PO drilled out the access holes in order to use a socket..could be the pic angle or my old eyes.
Haven't seen a lift in any of Your pics yet, milk crates work..or a old wooden bucket with metal straps
Architects suggestion of using a wood workers clamp to hold down the brake pedal is smart.
"C" clamps also sorta work ok.
Much better than a sack of flour..LOL
And hiring stuff done..well I guess it would be okish to let them mount Her new tire, then spin balance Your rear tire/wheel assembly on
one of those fancy gadgets they use nowadays...just watchem close while mumbling about the proper positioning of the weights, and the outrageous cost.
Good luck,
60
 

Last edited by 60weight; May 9, 2019 at 01:36 PM.
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Old May 9, 2019 | 01:37 PM
  #1002  
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I guess many on here don't follow the service manual or have blurry vision and can't read this LOL




Not sure if I need a T-bar Lug Wrench since a long allen socket and short extension reaches to allen bolt and can be used with a Ratchet and Torgue Wrench....IS THE ALLEN SCREW 7/16"? Just my luck, the largest long allen socket I have is 10mm and 7/16 is 11mm....and can't find one so I ordered the Wheel Lug Wrench for Harley 1936-72.




And yes, I have a lift and a jack. And yes, always use either blue Loctite or anti-seize depending on the application. An yes, will study the brake system when the wheel is off. I also have a C clamp and will use that to lock down the brake. Thanks

One more question....is front brake squeak normal? I realize the front is a mechanical drum vs the rear hydraulic drum. It squeaks when I first roll her out of the garage and down my driveway. After I start riding pretty much goes away even when slowing down except when apply full pressure to stop,
 

Last edited by hscic; May 9, 2019 at 04:56 PM.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 06:22 AM
  #1003  
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Originally Posted by hscic
I guess many on here don't follow the service manual or have blurry vision and can't read this LOL




Not sure if I need a T-bar Lug Wrench since a long allen socket and short extension reaches to allen bolt and can be used with a Ratchet and Torgue Wrench....IS THE ALLEN SCREW 7/16"? Just my luck, the largest long allen socket I have is 10mm and 7/16 is 11mm....and can't find one so I ordered the Wheel Lug Wrench for Harley 1936-72.

And yes, I have a lift and a jack. And yes, always use either blue Loctite or anti-seize depending on the application. An yes, will study the brake system when the wheel is off. I also have a C clamp and will use that to lock down the brake. Thanks

One more question....is front brake squeak normal? I realize the front is a mechanical drum vs the rear hydraulic drum. It squeaks when I first roll her out of the garage and down my driveway. After I start riding pretty much goes away even when slowing down except when apply full pressure to stop,
There it is, that's how you do it. Similar sockets in 7/16" also available on the Bay. I have one, bent it good using an impact gun, then got a new one. So I do follow the FSM and torque to spec, but I use a drop of red loctite. I had the absolute pleasure of losing lug bolts on the rear wheel of my Flathead, bad, bad things happen. Do not want a repeat. I have never had an issue getting them back off. No slathering of the Loctite, just a drop of RED.

You can use the ground to hold the wheel, but you need to keep turning the wheel as there is only one spot (as you found) that allows access. On the lift, clamp the brake pedal, rotate and repeat. Have a helper? Have them hold the pedal down. In a pinch, I can stand next to the bike, put my right foot on the brake pedal and do what I gotta do. I was putting the front wheel back on last month, wife was home and in a good mood, I asked her to help me for 5 minutes. I had her holding the front brake, tighten the bolt, let go of brake, rotate, repeat. Well in quick order we are done ans she says "that is a PITA, how do you do that by yourself?" I showed her the wood clamp and explained how I have do get up take clamp off, rotate wheel, get up put the clamp on, tighten bolt, get up take clamp off................. Her observation was that was not cool, I replied that she can come help whenever she wants. Good luck.
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 10:38 AM
  #1004  
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Originally Posted by Architect
There it is, that's how you do it. Similar sockets in 7/16" also available on the Bay. I have one, bent it good using an impact gun, then got a new one. So I do follow the FSM and torque to spec, but I use a drop of red loctite. I had the absolute pleasure of losing lug bolts on the rear wheel of my Flathead, bad, bad things happen. Do not want a repeat. I have never had an issue getting them back off. No slathering of the Loctite, just a drop of RED.

You can use the ground to hold the wheel, but you need to keep turning the wheel as there is only one spot (as you found) that allows access. On the lift, clamp the brake pedal, rotate and repeat. Have a helper? Have them hold the pedal down. In a pinch, I can stand next to the bike, put my right foot on the brake pedal and do what I gotta do. I was putting the front wheel back on last month, wife was home and in a good mood, I asked her to help me for 5 minutes. I had her holding the front brake, tighten the bolt, let go of brake, rotate, repeat. Well in quick order we are done ans she says "that is a PITA, how do you do that by yourself?" I showed her the wood clamp and explained how I have do get up take clamp off, rotate wheel, get up put the clamp on, tighten bolt, get up take clamp off................. Her observation was that was not cool, I replied that she can come help whenever she wants. Good luck.
For me, I don't torque everything but I do make it a habit to torque all critical fasteners for safety. I surely don't want to find out the hard way like you did.

If you find one, please post the link as I can not find one anywhere. Largest long allen socket I found was 3/8" and 10mm. I have a 7/16" standard allen socket but would need to put it on inside the wheel, lower bike, torque, remove, lift bike, turn wheel, put it on, lower bike, torque, remove, lift bike, turn wheel.....now that is a PITA but only 5 times so maybe not so bad lol.
 

Last edited by hscic; May 10, 2019 at 10:44 AM.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 01:00 PM
  #1005  
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As requested:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drive-Socke...YAAOSw~5dcL664

Not Snap On quality, but it gets the job done, you can use a ratchet for off and torque wrench for on. Same for front and back or any other HD you buy in the future. Fair enough investment for a tool.
 
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Old May 10, 2019 | 05:38 PM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by Architect
As requested:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drive-Socke...YAAOSw~5dcL664

Not Snap On quality, but it gets the job done, you can use a ratchet for off and torque wrench for on. Same for front and back or any other HD you buy in the future. Fair enough investment for a tool.
No wonder I couldn't find it...was looking for a 7/16" Allen Socket. Found the same item for less at DennisKirk. Thanks
 
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Old May 11, 2019 | 11:55 AM
  #1007  
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Waiting for the my long 7/16" allen lug wrench socket and an 1100lb scissors lift to remove the wheel....and yes, I will do it myself LOL

I have a lift and a jack, but I like the wide platform on the scissors and it has an 2 adapter for the front frame since there is a skid plate or something that is situated below the frame so can't use a lift with a flat surface under the motor.


This was asked on another thread but there was no reply to his inquiry so I will ask here.. I bought a grease gun since I noticed grease fittings on the swing arm and the brake lever. I looked in the manual and the only other one noted is the shifter lever, however when I changed my shift lever and arm and my jiffy stand, I did not recall seeing a grease fitting or I just did not notice it.. I don't think there is one on the sprocket shaft, hub or seat bar as in earlier years but I could be wrong. Any other fittings besides the brake lever and swing arm?
 

Last edited by hscic; May 11, 2019 at 12:04 PM.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 12:48 PM
  #1008  
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Hope Your going to bolt that scissor thing to the floor/concrete..looks shaky to me (side to side)..and hard to get to the turnbuckle when under Her.
Use one of these instead,much safer.


Also the FSM has the service and lubrication guide.
 

Last edited by 60weight; May 11, 2019 at 02:12 PM.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 12:54 PM
  #1009  
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Originally Posted by 60weight
Hope Your going to bolt this scissor thing to the floor/concrete..looks shaky to me (side to side)..and hard to get to the turnbuckle when under Her.
Use one of these instead,


Also the FSM has the service and lubrication guide.
I have that kind of lift in your pic....however just lifting the rear tire up and down. Also for reasons stated above, I am not able to place the lift in the position you have it i.e. under the motor or center of gravity to lift the whole bike as it can not lay flat on the frame.

That piston looks out of place in the pic.....don't forget to move your seat when you lower the bike lol.
 

Last edited by hscic; May 11, 2019 at 03:10 PM.
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Old May 11, 2019 | 04:18 PM
  #1010  
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Just didn't want to read that Your bike fell over on top of Ya.
My 4 year old Grandson put that piston there,then said "Paw look what came out of Yer Harley"
He helps me sometimes..lol
 
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