stats 79 shovel 113in dual plugged heads points ign 2 5ohm coils run in series here is problem " when trying to static time ,front cyl tdc comp stroke test light hooked up to points and ground I have to turn points plate all the way to retard and then some I have to pull hold down screws all the way out and continue past the holes to get light to go out cam is set right tried with 3 different electronic ign also same deal light go out way past the holes and with points riped motor apart 3 times and everthing is right had 2 mechanics look at it and they are baffled any ideas from the brain bunch spent 2 yrs f%$king with this got it running but no power roll on throttle no power tried everthing at least twice HELP

 

ok lets go into this as if its the first time your doing it and follow it my way see what happens

start over by putting a screwdriver or what ever in the front plug hole - what we are looking for is the front timing advance mark ( not TDC mark ) both plugs out rear wheel up in 4 gear

now rotate the rear wheel counterclockwise watch the timing hole, an guide the screwdriver in the cylinder so as not to let it bind up on anything - when you get to one of what ever marks on the flywheel you can put a piece of tape on the shaft of the screwdriver to confirm that location - continue to the next mark till you do see the TDC mark and the screwdriver is taller sticking out of the cylinder -- remember what the 2 marks look like for reference

take a piece of rubber fuel line and cover the spark plug hole front cylinder and blow in the other end < you want at this point not to be able to blow through you want it to be as if you put your finger on the end and air cant escape < if this happens you on compression front cylinder - if air blows through turn the motor over again one more time

ok lets assume you have it correct on the first try now back the engine up, turn the wheel clock wise back to the advance mark and try the hose again making sure one of the valves is not open

at this spot in the engine flywheel timing, now take one of the spark plugs and its wire and set it so you can see the plug end and its sitting on the engine if it wants to be in the air connect a ground wire to it to anything steel now your set -

with a small needle nose vise grips roll some electrical tape on both ends and then clip it on the distributor rotator for the points ( note your advancer needs to be the newer style bearing type for the bike to actually run the right way ) and if it is an old pin on metal one, and you guess its fine well its not ---- turn the vise grips in the direction of full advance, key must be on at this point , points must be set at spec , now turn the point plate clockwise and watch the plug when you see it spark stop snug the plate screws, at this point the vise grip is back to no advance / and rotate the vise grip again just at the end of its movement it should spark again -

NOW - 113 does not need all 36 degrees of the advance you just gave it = once you confirm its correct and runs the way it should back the plate up at least one of the hash marks on the plate i might even do 2 and that's 4 degrees so your total is 32 the gas today is not burning at a rate to support a big engine at 36 degrees of timing

 

I like the way John explained it... even if, of course, I do it a Bit Different!
My Question is why do you want 10 Ohms of coil impedance?? Parallel will be Fine... or better yet, dual plugs is where I go to Single Fire..

 

if u ask any mechanic 5.0 ohm coils are used with points ign they run 1 coil for left plugs and 1 coil for right plugs I've tried 3.0 with elec ign and the same thing have to pull screws out to make it timed as per all instructions crane hi-4 and ultima twice point get it to run but no power roll on throttle my mini bike beats it with 230lbs on it motor ran for 10,000 miles rebuilt it with new cam same c grind new rod bearings all it needed but now it won't run right went up and down on jets no change (028-029-032)john tied your way everything works except the part about the plug arc none when I advance to open points out of either . coils are brand new both of them so was the 3.0 ohm for electronic

 

coils are set up like this " back screw is power on first coil with jumper to rear of second coil ,,,front screw of first coil goes to points with a jumper going to front screw of 2nd coil

 

you could just eliminate one of the set of plugs to confirm you are on the same page electrically

the cam gear could have been advanced or even retarded - and that will move everything, as your now dealing with lobe separation angles have moved - hence you timing is not correct as it should be heads up - because the cams starting point as it is related to the starting point of the timing is in different

 

But... But... But... Two 5 ohm coils wired in series... is 10 Ohms....
two 5 ohm coils wired in parallel... = just a bit under 5 ohms... a Small bit ...

 

probably should not admit this - but I had an ironhead that I could run so retarded - I could time it off the rear cylinder firing to the front cyl advance mark - ya gotta say it like Rodney Dangerfield would say it - cause ironheads get no respect

I would verify TDC on front cyl with brass "knock" and validate timing marks first - given history - JZ is right about the cam issue which is a wild card

 

Totally agree.....

And coils in series adds, Parallel stays the same...

 

sounds like the OP has his coils in parallel