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I have a nice crimping tool, so I dont know what else to do. I tested the wires with a magnet and they are non-ferrous, so Im Guessing they are pure pure copper. Heat shrink on every one might make a difference. I think Im going to try the Solder Seal brand on the next rewire.
Whrn doing modifications, Ive had good luck with the Solder Tube things. I wouldnt use them for a complete require. Though for reliability, you cant beat properly done solder joints, and heat shrink tubing.
Whrn doing modifications, Ive had good luck with the Solder Tube things. I wouldnt use them for a complete require. Though for reliability, you cant beat properly done solder joints, and heat shrink tubing.
real race cars and airplanes are not soldered because of vibrations - and we al know Harleys never vibrate on the shop work table
They tested the first prototype in 2014, since then, they didn't catch an issue with charging? Embarrassing. I looked one over recent and it appears well built, but looks can be deceiving.
Maybe it's the one they built in 2014 and it finally needed its first charge?
real race cars and airplanes are not soldered because of vibrations - and we al know Harleys never vibrate on the shop work table
Race cars we solder connections with NO connectors most times. Use gold connectors if available.
but i have repaired complete harnesses that were on flood bikes with solder, dielectric grease and heat shrink. I get complements in how bright lights are.... how much better they run...( little extreme with my grounds also).. and 20+ plus years of no come backs. Good quality wire and connectors are a must...
Commonly there are 2 crimps in a connector. One is for the wire and the other is for the wire insulation. It's there to reduce the vibration on the wire crimp.. Sort of like a shock absorber.. Soldering does nothing but make the connection more rigid and prone to failure..
the illustration of the western union throws me back to the old bare wire and bobbin method used in old houses. you can always use a solder filled butt. using the right crimp is paramount since a bad crimp stress the wire. when i raised my house, i had over 100 feet of under ground service to my shop from the meter can so i had to connect with solder filled butts. i did not have a hex crimp die that big. the power company uses a circumference crimp that compresses the entire splice evenly around the wire. now they also use a twist type connector on high tension lines that compresses the two butt ends over a greater distance.
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