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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 09:42 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Racepres
Never heard that one!!!!
We made sure the Throwout oil slinger was appropriately behind the "fingers" is all...
Apologies, I guess I used the wrong term. Clymers recommends that the clutch release rod is pulled out so you can make sure the oil slinger bearing is seated in the "fingers" as you install the side cover. Am I correct in thinking the bearing end fits into the concave area of the fingers? Also, what are your recommendations for leveling the sealing surface of the cover? I was thinking of using a sheet of fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface and moving the cover in a figure 8 to get rid of the warp.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 03:52 PM
  #12  
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If you don't have a really flat surface, use a sheet of glass as John suggested. Place a sheet of 200 grit paper on it and work it around. When you check it, you'll see the high points, they will be shiny and the low ones won't. Keep working it until you've removed the high points and the mating surface is uniformly shiny. Have to do that sometimes on carb flanges that have warped.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 08:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by tom13
Apologies, I guess I used the wrong term. Clymers recommends that the clutch release rod is pulled out so you can make sure the oil slinger bearing is seated in the "fingers" as you install the side cover. Am I correct in thinking the bearing end fits into the concave area of the fingers? Also, what are your recommendations for leveling the sealing surface of the cover? I was thinking of using a sheet of fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface and moving the cover in a figure 8 to get rid of the warp.
First... I like a Flat surface and wet or dry sandpaper for "flattening"
Second.. you are correct about the Throwout to finger relationship.. You will find that it is Critical for best clutch operation to have the Clutch "Arm" at the correct angle.. I sort of remember the measurement for Cow Pie tranny... but will need to look it up on that Ratchet top...as, on Mine, I simply ensure that the Cable and Arm junction forms a 90 Degree Angle and go..
 
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Old Jul 26, 2019 | 05:44 PM
  #14  
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From: la la land jerzey
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1/2 inch off the starter
 
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Old Jul 29, 2019 | 08:29 AM
  #15  
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Just for future readers - it's not necessary to pull the transmission to remove the speedo drive unit.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 08:11 AM
  #16  
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Thanks for all the help. Apologies for not getting back to you sooner, Been on the road quite a bit for work. Finally got around to pulled the side cover last night and the gasket was bad. I'm still going to use the sheet of glass/sandpaper trick to ensure the electric start cover isn't warped. Gone to a couple of vendor sites and the only side cover gasket they carry is for a ratchet top kick start side cover. I know this makes me sound like a moron, but do both styles of side covers use the same gasket?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 03:51 PM
  #17  
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yes 1936 to 1984 on the kicker cover gasket as its called

check the throw out bearing on the end of the clutch operating shaft - the disc ones we change when ever we take it the cover off < like insurance as it will only go bad a week later after its back on the road
 
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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 06:30 AM
  #18  
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Isolated primary I put 7 oz in it,just enough to keep chain oiled, eng oil
 
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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 08:41 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by huck 08
Isolated primary I put 7 oz in it,just enough to keep chain oiled, eng oil
That will work!!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2019 | 12:01 PM
  #20  
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Kicker cover installed and no leaks. Replaced the bad gasket and used the glass/sandpaper trick. Definitely had a slight warp. Thanks for everyone's help and advice. Took it off the lift last night, so when I get home after work, I'll gas it up some and go for a ride barring any thunder boomers that have hit us the past 3 days. Thanks again.
 
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