clutch
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
clutch
is there any advantage or disadvantage of having a 5 stud hub compared to a 3.. would it make the clutch heavier to operate.also whats the best way to lube the cable thanks
Last edited by john lee; Nov 30, 2019 at 05:22 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
all 5 stud are china most are total junk reason hardness - too hard or too soft on the bearing surface
spring tension is the same -- and they make a cable lubber a must have for any owner uses spray fluids - some are liquid when spraying then turn into a gel
spring tension is the same -- and they make a cable lubber a must have for any owner uses spray fluids - some are liquid when spraying then turn into a gel
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 2,170
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From: australia
any thoughts on why its impossible to get neutral at standstill with engine running.if i come to a stop i cant get neutral but if i stop the engine it will click straight in from 2nd or first gear thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: la la land jerzey
couple things
the bell type TOB is a better deal for any app
oem clutches with the early type paper - when used with todays oil additive packages becomes sticky - we install alto red or green clutch disc set - then iso the primary and use the 10 / 40 motorcycle oil its correct for clutches or ATF type dextron 3
the ram jet will hold the clutch shell from walking out and following the clutch separation < reducing the amount of clearance between the steels and the clutch discs is a big deal
if you have the spring type steels - take them over to a bench grinder and grind off the rivets and small punch them out - the shells stays become grooved and they the ball steels stick in place as spinning - we remove them or buy the later type with out the ball and spring -- also once removed place the steels on sheet glass to see if they are actually flat if not throw them away
the max distance from the electric starter and the clutch arm is 1/2 inch in some cases even closer - its the fulcrum in its turning that requires the correct distance - its the right start point that makes all the difference
the bell type TOB is a better deal for any app
oem clutches with the early type paper - when used with todays oil additive packages becomes sticky - we install alto red or green clutch disc set - then iso the primary and use the 10 / 40 motorcycle oil its correct for clutches or ATF type dextron 3
the ram jet will hold the clutch shell from walking out and following the clutch separation < reducing the amount of clearance between the steels and the clutch discs is a big deal
if you have the spring type steels - take them over to a bench grinder and grind off the rivets and small punch them out - the shells stays become grooved and they the ball steels stick in place as spinning - we remove them or buy the later type with out the ball and spring -- also once removed place the steels on sheet glass to see if they are actually flat if not throw them away
the max distance from the electric starter and the clutch arm is 1/2 inch in some cases even closer - its the fulcrum in its turning that requires the correct distance - its the right start point that makes all the difference
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Ky
Also some drill the clutch plate holes 1 size larger
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
i run dry clutch. with 52 roller bearing hub. inch and half primo belt primary.it has a plastic retainer. also when the clutch is engaged you can hear the plates rattling which to me indicates there separating.thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
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From: SoCal
I'm thinking you meant when dis-engaged you hear the clutch plates rattling.
Are you running an open primary (no primary case) with that belt drive?
If so, you must adjust your belt by moving the transmission.
You may have set the belt too tight. It's same issue as adjusting a primary chain too tight.
Or it's one or a combination of the other things mentioned.
Are you running an open primary (no primary case) with that belt drive?
If so, you must adjust your belt by moving the transmission.
You may have set the belt too tight. It's same issue as adjusting a primary chain too tight.
Or it's one or a combination of the other things mentioned.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
its an enclosed belt with the steel roller adjuster.the 5 stud hub was installed by a hd mech when the studs on the 3 stud were stripped.belt wear and adjustment was also checked.he said the finding neutral problem is normal on shovels.but im not convinced
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
i talked to my mate tonight and says your correct..he gave me a can of bel ray 6 in 1 for cable lube and says its the best.he does not think its made any more
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
ive taken the cable out from the lever and the inner moves freely.my question is can i loosen spring adjustment without slipage to give me a lighter feel at the lever thanks