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its a experience feel fit thing - if they just slide in - red loctight -- if they are very hard and take great effort - never seize them ( maybe a 3 flute tap first ) -- if they seem tight but normal we use WD 40 - but set the height so no threads stick up out of the top of the nut with the -- gasket thickness as well as the nut and washers depends on years in the mix plus the jug thickness
car engines in head - even intake - block bolting - all respond well as its designer to use thread lube - then torqued
Harley is alloy to alloy using steel retention its not a car engine block and no torque spec was available from the factory - yea today they give a spec but we have seen stuff snap trying to achieve it with 50 year studs or even new studs
The studs require a tool (as opposed to fingers) to get the studs all the way down, what I will call a snug fit vs tight or true interference fit. Using your guide I will probably select Blue Loctite.
I still have to "fit" the studs which will require grinding them down to meet S&S height specification to use their cap nuts. I have also decided to use a flat washer under each cap to slightly increase surface area.
The studs require a tool (as opposed to fingers) to get the studs all the way down, what I will call a snug fit vs tight or true interference fit. Using your guide I will probably select Blue Loctite.
I still have to "fit" the studs which will require grinding them down to meet S&S height specification to use their cap nuts. I have also decided to use a flat washer under each cap to slightly increase surface area.
Like the original triangle washer??
Note that most hardware store washers are not Hard... source Hardened Washers or don't bother with them..
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