Primary to Engine Install
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Northford, CT
Primary to Engine Install
Hoping to get my primary mounted up end of this week after a transmission overhaul. I know I must be very careful here for proper alignment to prevent ruining the inner primary. I always refer to the FSM but I do seek Youtube for visuals. Here is a video I really like... basically he prefers to tighten transmission plate to frame, keep the transmission loose, install primary tightening only to the transmission, then to the engine, and finally tightening the transmission mounting nuts and bolt.
Is this the preferred procedure? The engine has NOT been removed from the frame.
Also, I ordered a new primary to engine seal 11125 but it seems a bit smaller than the seal that was there. Based on the research I did, the thicker one may be an Evo seal which is usually NOT preferred due to increased chance of cracking the engine lip. Should I run the 11125 along with grey permatex or, should I seek out the thicker seal that was there to begin with? This bike is a 1984 FXSB so maybe it was a changeover year with some Evo stuff? Parts book only lists 11125...
Old seal bottom of hand. New seal top of hand
Old seal on engine lip
New seal on engine lip
Is this the preferred procedure? The engine has NOT been removed from the frame.
Also, I ordered a new primary to engine seal 11125 but it seems a bit smaller than the seal that was there. Based on the research I did, the thicker one may be an Evo seal which is usually NOT preferred due to increased chance of cracking the engine lip. Should I run the 11125 along with grey permatex or, should I seek out the thicker seal that was there to begin with? This bike is a 1984 FXSB so maybe it was a changeover year with some Evo stuff? Parts book only lists 11125...
Old seal bottom of hand. New seal top of hand
Old seal on engine lip
New seal on engine lip
Last edited by garystaven88; Apr 6, 2020 at 05:26 PM.
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From: la la land jerzey
the thin one is the shovel correct one - the thick is the evo seal
we only do it with everything loose no o ring in place - mount the inner install all the bolts snug it down - then tighten everything else - then remove the inner - then re install it to see if it goes back on with no influence - and pushes all the way in front and back - if so install the o ring glue if that's your choice < depends on condition of the parts -- check motor trans and plate tighten anything while the inner is off and then re install the inner
we only do it with everything loose no o ring in place - mount the inner install all the bolts snug it down - then tighten everything else - then remove the inner - then re install it to see if it goes back on with no influence - and pushes all the way in front and back - if so install the o ring glue if that's your choice < depends on condition of the parts -- check motor trans and plate tighten anything while the inner is off and then re install the inner
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
I also do it the same as john mentions. Do not use the larger O-ring because as you suggested you may not only crack the lip you could also bust the bolt hole on the lower left side of the inner primary where it goes to the engine.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Northford, CT
Based on some further research it looks like the thicker O-ring was used on the later models 82+. Determining factor being the recess in the primary (later ones having a deeper recess for the thicker o-ring).
With all that.... STILL use the thinner O-ring.... correct?
With all that.... STILL use the thinner O-ring.... correct?
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