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I've owned an FXB for about 22 years. Stock except for an SS Super E. It always a finicky starter but OK even in winter . Over the years it has been harder to start but only when cold. I've done the usual stuff. Checked the starter for high mica, cables, solenoid etc.
I wanted to use a torque wrench to turn the motor over to measure resistance but don't know what within normal range. Has anyone known what the crankshaft torque measurement might be?
As it is the motor kicks about what I might expect but I'm eliminating possibilities. No stone unturned.
the turning resistance is dependent on engine condition - if its worn and using some oil or soaking when starting - your pressure is higher then a tight engine given its the exact engine
my guess its a later bike ( you did not post the year _ HELPS ) starter gets lazy over time - the battery cables if they have been changed they are china and the copper colored metal dont not last as long as the originals - you did not say if they have been changed - nor if the solenoid is a USA unit or out friendly toaster making friends side business making harley parts in Bangladesh or some other **** hole --- it could be the stuff you installed
Since you seem to have already been chasing the starter bits, may i suggest testing your intake manifold for leaks. Slowly over time getting harder and harder to start sounds like an intake leak to me, good luck.
Since you seem to have already been chasing the starter bits, may i suggest testing your intake manifold for leaks. Slowly over time getting harder and harder to start sounds like an intake leak to me, good luck.
Thanks for the replies. It's an 81 FXB. The solenoid was from JP Cycles but opening it up showed no real problems. Cables are probably OK as there is no real way to know being covered. Gauge is stock but the solenoid to starter is larger.
Intake gaskets are routinely changed as a maintenance item. The problem is cold cranking. I have been wondering if the ignition isn't retarding on starting. I do know the vacuum switch works but the ignition module is stock. There's a lot of advantages to a newer ignition module. Timing is one for sure and firing just one cylinder at a time rather than wasted spark giving better coil saturation.
Maybe for Christmas...
I know Detroit has tried different methods to allow more coil saturation time. Dual points in the hemi's example. Today each plug has it's own coil. I once had a hot rod with a distributor that had dual coils, points, and a special rotor that split the firing. Not sure why the dyno didn't show an improvement.
I know Detroit has tried different methods to allow more coil saturation time. Dual points in the hemi's example. Today each plug has it's own coil. I once had a hot rod with a distributor that had dual coils, points, and a special rotor that split the firing. Not sure why the dyno didn't show an improvement.
I can make a dyno show anything you wish... cannot cheat the 1/4 mile dyno... zero Difference... sounds different tho..
BTW if you go to Electronic Fuel Injection, you will go to Single Fire... me thinks you are re-inventing the wrong Platform..
we use to bring the shop street race bike to the horsepower shootouts just to challenge the guy who was a plant by the dynos operator for money when eb=very one seen we only made 2/3rds of the HP the winner made
its in your question - torque - and the speed the engine makes the torque is the bike out front
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