1977 Super Glide updates
Recap
-Bought this around two months ago, first shovelhead
-Very little info from previous owner
-Bike runs / rides
-Bike leaks fluids from everwhere
-High idle once warmed up
-Will not kick over
As it currently stands, per the advice of many of you, the bike is now back in running order after suffering from a lack of free time and waiting on parts. The S and S super E carburetor was freshened up with a rebuild kit. The ignition module was replaced with an Ultima specifically setup for a stock shovelhead, kicker friendly. The two piece intake manifold clamps were replaced with the stainless steel "band" type clamps, period correct orings, and Hylomar Blue sticky icky per John / 98s? advice. The fuel tanks were removed and surprisingly very clean on the inside, as was the petcock filter. This was my first time tuning a motorcycle carburetor but the S and S Super E is pretty straight forward and user friendly platform. I think that I have it pretty well dialed in, but I am still trying to make heads or tails of whether it needs to be rejetted as the bike lacks power in 3rd/4th gears. I will tinker a bit more with the accelerator pump and confirm thats dialed in correctly. Other notes would be that when I first tried cranking the bike over the engine puked up about a 8-10" diameter puddle of oil from the breather. The bike now idles properly when I pull up to a red light, no more high idle issues. The bike is "one kick" when warmed up, tomorrow morning I will try kicking it cold and see how it does. Also, do the from brake on these bikes typically suck @ss?
Pic for reference.
Last edited by Turbomunkey; Aug 4, 2020 at 10:35 PM.
If I took a close picture you would see the paint is actually cracked up like a dried out puddle of mud. The frame seems like it was powder coated because the paint on it is perfect, motor and frame numbers match as well.
Jon C
Notcie what appears to be straight pipe i.e. no mufflers? You will improve your performance just by putting in some short steel baffles
Trending Topics
For what its worth I have not experienced any sumping at all, up until the bike sat for these last several weeks. Regardless, check valve will be inspected.
Notcie what appears to be straight pipe i.e. no mufflers? You will improve your performance just by putting in some short steel baffles
The pipes are straight yes. How does one acquire baffles for pipes?
I rode to work and confirmed that at higher speed if I open the bike up the thing had serious lag, which would appear is a rich condition. Would an improperly tuned accelerator pump affect this?
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/834...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
You drill a hole on the back side of the pipe and install a small bolt to hold it in place.
After you decide you hate them because they sound like ****, they come right back out again and you can go back to enjoying straight pipes as God intended. These bikes are not for performance, unless you drop big coin for that, they are for enjoyment. Ride around loud and proud.
Base timing was set per the instructions, this particular module specified setting off top dead center. With the "original" module the bike was the same way in terms of top end power. I do not recall what curve the dude programmed, but it was based around a stock shovel motor. I was an idiot and did not check jet numbers while the carburetor was pulled apart. I am probably going to ride the bike to work today and recheck my settings, also will get on it a little bit and see if i get an popping or anything.
If I took a close picture you would see the paint is actually cracked up like a dried out puddle of mud. The frame seems like it was powder coated because the paint on it is perfect, motor and frame numbers match as well.
Jon C












