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I knew the procedure but did not remember the specification of 1/2". Other online sources, not HD, say jack it up and let the wheel hang free and adjust to 5/8" slack. I have a jack and could do that very easily if it is correct???? I would hate to go to the trouble of doing that and then the chain be as tight as a guitar string when I let it down and put my weight on it in addition to the weight of the bike. What are your recommendations here on the forum?
So Many Variables...is this bike Bone stock Original??? Didn't think so..
remember that the chain cannot get any tighter than when the swingarm is exactly level with the line to the output sprocket...
therefor.. the trick is to find Square... straight.. usually requires weight on the Bike [stock]... Or if lowered... the swingarm is already past square...and the run is getting shorter again...with suspension movement.. The "slack measurements" are at best a guess, as to where the swingarm actually is at..
Want perfect??? elevate, remove shocks lower until the chain is at its tightest point, where the swingarm is level with the tranny sprocket.. adjust for some small bit of slack...maybe 1/4 inch... reassemble... carry on...
Unless lowered...in that case... good luck...gonna have other problems anyway!!!
Turn image upside down for that scenario...
I didn't think that jacked up method was correct. It is in a few different places on the internet. That is scary. I used to have a heavy wire with a 90 degree bend on the end and would sit on the bike and reach down and pull the chain up. I guess I will have to recruit the wife for this job. Thanks for the clarification.
I didn't think that jacked up method was correct. It is in a few different places on the internet. That is scary. I used to have a heavy wire with a 90 degree bend on the end and would sit on the bike and reach down and pull the chain up. I guess I will have to recruit the wife for this job. Thanks for the clarification.
Only Correct way!!! Note tho... once done... provided the shocks don't change, and the load don't change... whatever slack measured when completed, is what That particular bike and rider, [riders], requires..
Remember to adjust 1/2” at the tightest part of the chain.
Using my Method... the hard way.. 1/2 is too much if the swingarm is exactly perpendicular... or as "long" as it will ever Get!!!
Therefore as Tight as it will ever get... I use a tad less than 1/4" less on Dragbikes, but never so tight as to put Any noticeable drag or friction... then Control the Chain!!!! again Not with Springs... they can actually Exacerbate Whip!!
So Many Variables...is this bike Bone stock Original??? Didn't think so..
remember that the chain cannot get any tighter than when the swingarm is exactly level with the line to the output sprocket...
therefor.. the trick is to find Square... straight.. usually requires weight on the Bike [stock]... Or if lowered... the swingarm is already past square...and the run is getting shorter again...with suspension movement.. The "slack measurements" are at best a guess, as to where the swingarm actually is at..
Want perfect??? elevate, remove shocks lower until the chain is at its tightest point, where the swingarm is level with the tranny sprocket.. adjust for some small bit of slack...maybe 1/4 inch... reassemble... carry on...
Unless lowered...in that case... good luck...gonna have other problems anyway!!!
Turn image upside down for that scenario...
This actually seems like the easy way, since I do not need someone as fat as me to sit on the bike. Going to give this method a try, shock removal is a 2 minute job. Bike on frame lift, I should be able to use a simple floor jack to raise swing arm to level. Thanks for posting with diagram.
This actually seems like the easy way, since I do not need someone as fat as me to sit on the bike. Going to give this method a try, shock removal is a 2 minute job. Bike on frame lift, I should be able to use a simple floor jack to raise swing arm to level. Thanks for posting with diagram.
Glad you like it... I have been using it a very long time.. I like that I Know that the Chain will Never get any Tighter...
Note, the Idea of Finding the tightest spot in the chain is also extremely Valid... as the hubs/sprockets etc are Certainly Not Concentric...
But... using the "longest lever" and the tightest spot... certainly don't require 1/2 in of Slack... That may well be 1" of Slop at an angle of the swingarm, and the Slopiest part of the Sprocket Chain interface...
I never run that much at the Absolute tightest spot..
Edit; I do use a Rigid Idler on all Dragbikes on the "slack" side... Never springs ... as they can, and Do, amplify slap.
Control is Good
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