Electronic ignition
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 86
Likes: 27
From: Oklahoma
Electronic ignition
83 Low Rider. Originally came with electronic ignition. I have been running points for awhile and the quality of the weights and points seems to be harder to get. Your thoughts on converting back to electronic ignition. I suppose the coil and plug wires should also be looked at to sync in. Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
My '83 Still has the Stock Type EI..updated the pickup once to a Standard Ignition pick-up, and I prefer Sportster Module as I get a faster Advance Curve, and a bit higher rev limit..
Having said all of that I really like the "real" Dyna-S... the mechanical advance mechanisms can be Challenging... but some decent Quality ones are Out there.. Points... yea... On Ironheads,and Early Shovels, [pre-1979], and Any motorbike from Russia!!!!!
Having said all of that I really like the "real" Dyna-S... the mechanical advance mechanisms can be Challenging... but some decent Quality ones are Out there.. Points... yea... On Ironheads,and Early Shovels, [pre-1979], and Any motorbike from Russia!!!!!
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 86
Likes: 27
From: Oklahoma
Thanks for the reply. I am going to try and make a long story short. LOL. I bought the bike on 1990 with about 10000 miles. It was converted to points and had a SU carb. I changed to super E and kept the points system and have put about another 10000 miles. I parked it in '05 and it was running good. I have pretty much gone through the bike and replaced oil lines, fuel lines, filters, weights and points, electrical wiring and connections where need, starter, solenoid, oil seals, spark plug wires and etc. The original owner told me he bought it new and has never cracked open the heads or tranny. I have spent the last 5 months working on it and am just now getting it running. Amazingly, no oil leaks. At first, and with some guidance with timing from you, it's running good. Now after about 10 miles of travel and the bike warmed, it's cutting out on high throttle. I checked the gap on the plugs, points, timing again. It still in tolerance. I removed the gas tanks and thoroughly cleaned them again to make sure of no fuel problems from them. The motor sounds solid. Front cylinder compression: 115psi rear cyl: 120 psi.
Pushrod adjustment good. The spark plugs look like they maybe running a little rich. Gonna go through the carb setup again and see if that helps. I can't seem to put a finger on it. When I first start the bike, cold or warmed up, it starts right up. ????
Pushrod adjustment good. The spark plugs look like they maybe running a little rich. Gonna go through the carb setup again and see if that helps. I can't seem to put a finger on it. When I first start the bike, cold or warmed up, it starts right up. ????
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
Thanks for the reply. I am going to try and make a long story short. LOL. I bought the bike on 1990 with about 10000 miles. It was converted to points and had a SU carb. I changed to super E and kept the points system and have put about another 10000 miles. I parked it in '05 and it was running good. I have pretty much gone through the bike and replaced oil lines, fuel lines, filters, weights and points, electrical wiring and connections where need, starter, solenoid, oil seals, spark plug wires and etc. The original owner told me he bought it new and has never cracked open the heads or tranny. I have spent the last 5 months working on it and am just now getting it running. Amazingly, no oil leaks. At first, and with some guidance with timing from you, it's running good. Now after about 10 miles of travel and the bike warmed, it's cutting out on high throttle. I checked the gap on the plugs, points, timing again. It still in tolerance. I removed the gas tanks and thoroughly cleaned them again to make sure of no fuel problems from them. The motor sounds solid. Front cylinder compression: 115psi rear cyl: 120 psi.
Pushrod adjustment good. The spark plugs look like they maybe running a little rich. Gonna go through the carb setup again and see if that helps. I can't seem to put a finger on it. When I first start the bike, cold or warmed up, it starts right up. ????
Pushrod adjustment good. The spark plugs look like they maybe running a little rich. Gonna go through the carb setup again and see if that helps. I can't seem to put a finger on it. When I first start the bike, cold or warmed up, it starts right up. ????
That compression is probably just fine [I would Not worry over it] Idling is the First step... after "cutting out" when you bring it back to idle ... does it still idle properly?? What Air filter is in there?? I use K&N exclusively on everything on the Farm!!!
I will need to wrap my head around "cutting out at higher throttle" if you stay in it does it just stutter? pop? backfire? or just kind of hit a wall??
Edit; How was the petcock screen when you cleaned tanks???
You ain't runnin a Damn Inline Fuel Filter are you??? Dastardly Things!!!!
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 86
Likes: 27
From: Oklahoma
Hydraulic lifters. K&N filter. New petcock and filter. When starting cold, I use the enrichner and it idles about 1000 rpm. If I immediately close the enrichner, the idles drops down to less than 500 rpm. Not until the bike warms does the idle stay at 1000 rpm. Once it's warmed, it seems to idle ok. I set the idle adjustment to 1000 rpm when warm. The idle is not exactly real smooth. The rpm gauge bounces.
I have an oil cooler with no bypass installed. I rarely ride the bike when it's cold out. When first starting out, I ride it relatively slow and smooth until the bike comes up to temp. The highest temp I've seen on my temp dip stick is 150 F. after it's warmed. I am using 100 % high test gas. After it's warmed and now it's occasionally stuttering even at constant throttle, but especially when I crank it. Not poping or backfiring. I am trying to isolate whether fuel or ignition or combo. I don't think it has anything to do with the mechanics of the engine ( I hope). Thanks
I have an oil cooler with no bypass installed. I rarely ride the bike when it's cold out. When first starting out, I ride it relatively slow and smooth until the bike comes up to temp. The highest temp I've seen on my temp dip stick is 150 F. after it's warmed. I am using 100 % high test gas. After it's warmed and now it's occasionally stuttering even at constant throttle, but especially when I crank it. Not poping or backfiring. I am trying to isolate whether fuel or ignition or combo. I don't think it has anything to do with the mechanics of the engine ( I hope). Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
Hydraulic lifters. K&N filter. New petcock and filter. When starting cold, I use the enrichner and it idles about 1000 rpm. If I immediately close the enrichner, the idles drops down to less than 500 rpm. Not until the bike warms does the idle stay at 1000 rpm. Once it's warmed, it seems to idle ok. I set the idle adjustment to 1000 rpm when warm. The idle is not exactly real smooth. The rpm gauge bounces.
I have an oil cooler with no bypass installed. I rarely ride the bike when it's cold out. When first starting out, I ride it relatively slow and smooth until the bike comes up to temp. The highest temp I've seen on my temp dip stick is 150 F. after it's warmed. I am using 100 % high test gas. After it's warmed and now it's occasionally stuttering even at constant throttle, but especially when I crank it. Not poping or backfiring. I am trying to isolate whether fuel or ignition or combo. I don't think it has anything to do with the mechanics of the engine ( I hope). Thanks
I have an oil cooler with no bypass installed. I rarely ride the bike when it's cold out. When first starting out, I ride it relatively slow and smooth until the bike comes up to temp. The highest temp I've seen on my temp dip stick is 150 F. after it's warmed. I am using 100 % high test gas. After it's warmed and now it's occasionally stuttering even at constant throttle, but especially when I crank it. Not poping or backfiring. I am trying to isolate whether fuel or ignition or combo. I don't think it has anything to do with the mechanics of the engine ( I hope). Thanks
Fuel delivery, No Inline Filter [did I happen to mention that??] and perhaps the jetting is slightly Rich... finally, if the Idle is Changing alot, and/or if ya Wack the throttle and the bike slowly returns to idle...check for intake leaks!!! Too Rich of a mixture is used to mask Intake leaks!!!!
BTW, if this thing has DragPipes... or even 2" muffled pipes... all bets are Off... Live with it..
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 86
Likes: 27
From: Oklahoma
Ok, thanks for your input. No inline fuel filter. However, I do have drag pipes. Had on there ever since I bought the bike. Nearest I can remember, it wasn't an issue back then. I will definitely check for intake leaks.
Trending Topics
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,590
Likes: 3,361
From: Cental, MI
Noise Makers...
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,495
Likes: 3,705
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
3 things come to mind: coil going bad, intake leak or advance weights going south on you.
And to reiterate what RacePres said, you can't go wrong with the Dyna S system. Does mean a different coil is needed.
And to reiterate what RacePres said, you can't go wrong with the Dyna S system. Does mean a different coil is needed.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 87
Likes: 9
From: Colorado
Not trying to steal thread but have similar problems with my new-to-me 78 FXE with Super E. Seems to be running rich. I'm at 5300' with .028 int and .072 main jets. Finally tuned to where it runs OK but still sooting the plugs. Idle mix only 1/2 turn out from seated which indicates too large int jet but before I do that I figure I better check for intake leak. Everything looks and feels tight. What is the best way to check?