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Ignition upgrade 1983 FXR

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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 04:34 PM
  #11  
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in my shop over the past 25 years its been around my guess we installed a couple 1000 at least

as a dealer they will take any one of them we sold and replace it for free only had one that the led light burned out and they gave us a new one

i static set them all and use them in all the bikes from 1970 to 1999 - we do not work on anything after 1999 and i dont care what they are doing about anything
 
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 05:48 PM
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I currently have 3 machines with the Ultima, had a coil fail on one of them. I static timed them then checked with a timing gun , all were close and not worth tweaking. Bought the cable to program 0 revs.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 08:45 PM
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I like the advance curve on the Ultima better than the Compufire I took out. I dynamic time them through the chain inspection hole on the primary.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kink04fxd
I like the advance curve on the Ultima better than the Compufire I took out. I dynamic time them through the chain inspection hole on the primary.
Do you need a dial back timing light to time through the inspection hole?
Also on a " light bike" like the FXR would I benefit from adding a VOES?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 12:05 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Redrodyankneck
Do you need a dial back timing light to time through the inspection hole?
Also on a " light bike" like the FXR would I benefit from adding a VOES?
Bone stock there's no disadvantage to running a VOES. VOES is just a vacuum actuated way of replacing the mechanical advance, uses intake vacuum to change the timing curve instead of RPM's. Some cam's and carb choices can play hell with that and most shops can't tune a VOES.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 12:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Bone stock there's no disadvantage to running a VOES. VOES is just a vacuum actuated way of replacing the mechanical advance, uses intake vacuum to change the timing curve instead of RPM's. Some cam's and carb choices can play hell with that and most shops can't tune a VOES.

Originally Posted by Redrodyankneck
Do you need a dial back timing light to time through the inspection hole?
Also on a " light bike" like the FXR would I benefit from adding a VOES?
The voes is simply an on/off controlled by vacuum. Bikes factory equipped with them are generally 2.5-3.5in hq for lighter bikes and 6in hg for heavy Touring models. The design is so when you crank on it hard at any rpm, the timing will drop to a lower setting (as defined/programmed) in the ignition module. Not such a big deal for light bikes but really a good thing for heaving and 2-up riding. This allows for less chance of spark knock at high speeds under heavy throttle while allowing full advance under normal conditions. This helps with the obvious problem of detonation under heavy load while improving fuel mileage under lighter throttle.

They are over $50 so I would try it without and ground the wire that feeds the module. That makes it run in full advance (depending on rpms) look at this chart. It will show you the different timing curves. This is the Ultima chrt, the Dyna 2ki curves are different.



If you ground the module lead for the voes, it will use the dotted line advance curve. Leave it un-hooked it will follow the solid lines.There are switches on the module to easily change from 1 thru 4 lines of advance.
 

Last edited by t150vej; Jan 7, 2021 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 05:03 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Bone stock there's no disadvantage to running a VOES. VOES is just a vacuum actuated way of replacing the mechanical advance, uses intake vacuum to change the timing curve instead of RPM's. Some cam's and carb choices can play hell with that and most shops can't tune a VOES.
andrews J grind cam and S&S super e carb.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 05:09 PM
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I wouldn't bother with that combo, J's close to the stock H grind, tends to be a bit flatter off the line and likes midrange more. No gain putting one in if it isn't there already.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 05:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
I wouldn't bother with that combo, J's close to the stock H grind, tends to be a bit flatter off the line and likes midrange more. No gain putting one in if it isn't there already.
I have seen some installs with a 2 pole single throw toggle switch, one pole for the Purple wire and other to ground . Keep the purple wire grounded for normal riding, steep curve. Open the switch when going up a hill riding 2 up with gear, gradual curve. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 05:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Redrodyankneck
I have seen some installs with a 2 pole single throw toggle switch, one pole for the Purple wire and other to ground . Keep the purple wire grounded for normal riding, steep curve. Open the switch when going up a hill riding 2 up with gear, gradual curve. Any thoughts?
That one couldn't say, bulk of my experience is with straight forward making it reliable stuff, never been a fan of the all electronic ignitions, just never could get any of them tweaked out the way I like. They go out your stranded till a replacement is found, even in my hotrod I run the Dyna S & advance unit still.
 
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