oil
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
oil
whats the right way to change the engine oil. i once saw a guy drain the tank. leave the plug out start it up until no more oil came out of the tank. then refilled it. i can see the theory in that as it gets all the oil out of the crank case. am i correct. thanks
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 4,126
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From: W. MI.
I've seen it with the plug out along with the filter. The claim to fame is that it completely empties the motor of used oil? While that may be the idea, I would believe while doing that other parts have no oil. I get it, but I will stick to the usual way. To each their own.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 435
From: australia
I've seen it with the plug out along with the filter. The claim to fame is that it completely empties the motor of used oil? While that may be the idea, I would believe while doing that other parts have no oil. I get it, but I will stick to the usual way. To each their own.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 2,168
From: australia
with engine warm, drain oil replace plug,fill oil tank with a cup of kero swish the bike around , drain the kero replace filter add new oil........thats what FSM says....( kero= kerosine or i think you guys call it paraffin )
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,110
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Just warm the bike, drain it and refill, the few extra ounces of oil throughout the system will not affect anything.
Don't over think the simple **** or a shovel will keep you awake at night.
Don't over think the simple **** or a shovel will keep you awake at night.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Way back in 1983, a farmer I know bought a long bed new Toyota just like me. He was old school cleanly is next to godley. We had been deer hunting that morning and were sitting around talking at lunch and he ask me to look at his Toyota. It was shucking fan belts.
I looked at it and it was obvious that the damper pulley was way forward. I scratch my head and a little prying made me realize the crank had .08 or more end play and the clutch was pushing flywheel forward.
Motor had about 90,000 k on it. Mine had 100K and all was good.
He told me he always poured in a few quarts of kerosene at oil changes to flush it. Problem is that leaves a good quart of it left in head and such. We tore it down and the two slip it thrust plates were almost gone.
My old 83 went to 250K. Did replace numerous cam chain guides. They would break at 50k or the first time you red lined that 4 cylinder. It would run fine without them except it cut a groove into the water pump impeller cavity and dump coolant into oil pan.
Get it warmed up. Drain the oil. Replace the filter. Replace proper amount of oil. Start it up and check for leaks. Good to go.
I looked at it and it was obvious that the damper pulley was way forward. I scratch my head and a little prying made me realize the crank had .08 or more end play and the clutch was pushing flywheel forward.
Motor had about 90,000 k on it. Mine had 100K and all was good.
He told me he always poured in a few quarts of kerosene at oil changes to flush it. Problem is that leaves a good quart of it left in head and such. We tore it down and the two slip it thrust plates were almost gone.
My old 83 went to 250K. Did replace numerous cam chain guides. They would break at 50k or the first time you red lined that 4 cylinder. It would run fine without them except it cut a groove into the water pump impeller cavity and dump coolant into oil pan.
Get it warmed up. Drain the oil. Replace the filter. Replace proper amount of oil. Start it up and check for leaks. Good to go.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 23, 2021 at 07:22 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2018
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Likes: 435
From: australia