Try it and watch the plugs - your the one saying the intake is dead on

dont just blast it run it at speed 10 minuets then check

 

On my 74 inch Shovel with 2" drags 68 was way too lean for me. I think I wound up with a .0295 or .031 slow speed jet and a 72 main. I'm not saying this is what the OP needs that's just what my bike ran best with given the pile of jets I had on hand.

As far as clutch creep goes to rid my bike of it I kept the stock hub (just got a new one) and used the big fix kit and Ram Jett retainer. The retainer prevents the clutch shell from walking outwards. The big fix kit ditches the cage bearings which cause the shell to wobble on the hub with full length needle bearings. I then used new Barnett plates. That pretty much did away will all the clutch creep. Never have trouble finding neutral and it doesn't jerk or surge when taking off.

Here is a link to the big fix kit:
BDL Big Fix Roller Bearing Kit For Harley 4-Speed Transmissions

Here is a link to the Ram Jet clutch retainer:
Clutch Retainer

Here is a link from V-Twin showing the installation procedure of the retainer:
SIFTON RAM JETT CLUTCH RETAINER KIT FITS 1941-1984 BT

Good luck.

 

did you change to 5 stud hub. if not any reason why

 

Two things the 5 stud is all china and maybe the race is hard enough or actually too hard

the full long roller bearing set up kit - is a ploy Ted is money hungry and thinks he will live forever - it does not maintain enough lubrication and seen them seize up - more then one

 

Well that "ploy" has been working fine for the last 25 years for me. I don't even remember what vendor I got it from. An old local wrench ordered it for me. He was trained in the panhead/shovelhead era and knew those bikes well.

I asked him about the five stud clutch hub and he said that he had seen some of them have nuts come loose because the pressure wasn't always enough to keep all the nuts under tension.

I ain't saying my setup is the best out there, but it has served me quite well (much better than stock) for a long time and a lot of miles.

 

I have a stock '79 FLH with S&S super b and have been playing around with jetting. I ended up with 70 main and 31 intermediate and it pulls like hell up to 80 mph, that's good enough for me. It sounds like you may have another problem because your jetting doesn't sound that far off. With leaner jets mine was spitting back off idle and flat on acceleration.

 

I think the problem may just be that I’m running drags. I know a million guys run drags without the issue, but the S&S youtube video very clearly demostrates misfire/stuttering issues that are resolved with different pipes.

 

You are right in that drag pipes don't tune worth squat. On my shovel and 03 twinky when I was running some sort of baffle the carbs were a little better behaved. That being said the S&S Super E seems to be fairly tolerant of drag pipes at least on my bike. I guess because it is not a constant velocity design.

I have read many times that 1 3/4" drag pipes run best, but when I tried them on my bike it was the worst it had ever run. For some reason of the three sets of drags I had tried 2" pipes about 36" long ran the best on low and midrange. Not as much power up top as the Cycle Shack mufflers I have on hand, but dag gone they ran so good for 90 percent of the riding that I do I left them on. The reason being they sounded better than any other pipe I had run. Funny thing is sitting in the saddle the bike is quieter to my ears than the Cycle Shack mufflers are. I guess because all the sound goes straight back instead of radiating all over the place.

These are the Cycle Shack mufflers I am talking about:
CYCLE SHACK MUFFLER PIPES

I know these shown are for a sportster but I couldn't find the link to the ones I got for my big twin. I will say that when I first put them on they didn't make good power at all. They were too restrictive. Cycle Shack offered a set of high performance baffles in their catalog at that time. I just took my baffles out and drilled holes in the pattern of the baffles in their picture and they made much better power. The carb was very well behaved as well.

I also remember a company called ThunderJet that makes a third fuel circuit for those Super E carbs that increases fuel flow at higher RPM so you can better tune the low and midrange with the jets. I don't have any experience with them myself but back in the day I recall a lot of drag racers used them. Might be worth looking into. Used to be you could send your carb to them and they would install it and send it back.

Just thought I'd throw this stuff out there while it was on my mind. Good luck.

 

Looking closer at the kit you showed there John it looks pretty cool. I never knew such a thing existed. I live in a remote rural area that doesn't have any shops left that really know old bikes so I'm way out of the loop. Roger Purgason was the guy I dealt with for years but he passed away in 2015. Does the kit you've shown here use standard clutch plates? Is it pretty much a drop in replacement that can work with the stock primary setup?

 

We only use the red alto discs and the spring and ball steels we remove them as well or buy the ones with out depends on your money

alto discs are inexpensive and the best money can buy - they make all the clutches for racing drag cars and have for 50 years - the red is the same material they developed for race car auto trans and we use iso primary ATF in the primary