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The latest struggle. Breaking up at high RPM w/ super E
I'm still ironing out the kinks on this shovel, and made a lot of progress. Since I got the bike, I've fully rewired it, replaced o-ring intake seals with FNA tite seals, replaced the cam cover and ignition (replaced points with Dyna S & brand new coil/wires/plugs), cleaned the carb out, put in new friction plates and swapped all fluids. I am now fighting to get the bike running right at higher RPMs. I couldn't guess the exact RPMs, but it is stuttering like I'm hitting a rev limiter up top when I'm somewhere around 3500-4000. The ignition is timed such that, with the advance mark in the window on the compression stroke, the test lamp lights up when I rotate the magnetic rotor to its furthest travel. I'm able to spray a good amount of Brakleen on the seals at idle without the bike dying, so I'm confident it's not an intake leak. The wiring is tidy and nothing is loose, including grounds. To me, this sounds like what the Super E tuning guide describes as "breaking up", but I've tried main jets ranging from 68 (starting point) up to a 72 without any improvement. I'm at sea level, so I assume any of those should run relatively fine. I couldn't say which cam is in the bike, except that is is definitely an Andrews of some type. The chest is timed correctly and my pushrods are adjusted correctly. I'm running out of ideas, would appreciate any tips.
I have a similar setup and intermittent problems and a call to Dyna told me to change to black coils(single fire, dual plugs) for the street. Changed the cone unit too, it was fried. Make sure the advance unit is in perfect condition. Revs to 7K.
The main is too rich - the S&S on a shovel is like a 4 barrel Holley on a 6 cylinder - fine tune it - reduce the jet by one and go again if better and still in play reduce again one size
the people selling parts answer is spend another 1000 bucks with us and we will help you spend another 1000 bucks
The main is too rich - the S&S on a shovel is like a 4 barrel Holley on a 6 cylinder - fine tune it - reduce the jet by one and go again if better and still in play reduce again one size
the people selling parts answer is spend another 1000 bucks with us and we will help you spend another 1000 bucks
Well, I went back down to a 68 and wouldnt ya know it, its running way better. Its really weird because I had the 68 in it to start with. Onto the next issue now, which is that my clutch just refuses to stop dragging when everything heats up. hard to get right considering the factory adjustments mean nothing when its all not stock.
Way too many things to ask about and i hate typing that much - But i dont have the number in my head and if i remember i will give you a diaphragm kit instead of the springs - it will fix that issue and its not pricy at all
Way too many things to ask about and i hate typing that much - But i dont have the number in my head and if i remember i will give you a diaphragm kit instead of the springs - it will fix that issue and its not pricy at all
The unit was changed this years book to include other stuff - he has always been a ***** so i am not surprised- you should put in the 5 stud ram jet retainer
The unit was changed this years book to include other stuff - he has always been a ***** so i am not surprised- you should put in the 5 stud ram jet retainer
Thanks for that. Ill have a look into it. However, Im actually going back go calling this carb issue unresolved. It does seem a little better in 1st/2nd gear, but in 3rd I get pretty bad sputtering at high RPMs still.
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The latest struggle. Breaking up at high RPM w/ super E
