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Old May 13, 2021 | 06:59 AM
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Default Engine Removal Shortcuts

I have got to take the engine out to get one disentegrated head bolt out. Is it possible to leave the starter and solenoid attached to the primary and just move the primary far enough to the left to detach it from the engine and transmission. I know I will have to remove the starter support bracket from the rear of the starter. I had just put a new Primary Chain on and don't want to do all that again if I don't have to. I don't want to break my inner primary either.
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 09:05 AM
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From: la la land jerzey
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Some times you can stick weld a 5/16 nut in place

no short cuts that wont cause other install issues - do it right once with out causing more damage

all the bolts holding the trans loosen them as well - first thing to re align the works is the primary it sets the motor and trans location very very important

rear chain off as well - the job is a thing - but in the end you will be in a better place then a cracked primary or even a front case foot snapped off

ask for directions when it’s back in - you wont be sorry to take your time and do it right the first time
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 11:01 AM
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Yeah I got to looking and already took the primary off. Now to wrestle that rascal out. I think I have enough room to cut the bolt head off with a Dremel as there is a pretty thick washer under the flange; if not off to the weld shop! Thanks
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 04:45 PM
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surely theres a way to get that bolt out if its on the outside without taking the motor out
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 06:14 PM
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I guess a guy could if he really wanted to, but he would either have to come to the bike or the bike go to him, but there is not a lot of room. The motor is out and the head and cylinder were removed as a unit. I will check a couple of welding shops and a machine shop or two. I am very rural and they are few and far between.
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 08:42 PM
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you will be surprised what else you might find as well........chaffed wiring etc etc.
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 10:15 PM
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Well I did find out why my tach was acting up, broken connector at the coil. I also found some nuts, bolts, and washers that I had dropped through the years. Other than that, nothing remarkable.
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 10:49 PM
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After 30+ years in the auto repair business I can vouch more often than not that the 'long hard way' to do a repair is the easiest. In reality it just takes more time and it's the proper way to do it.
 
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Old May 14, 2021 | 09:43 AM
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Well life is good sometimes, like this morning. The first two welding shops / machine shops were closed. I drove 12 miles to a shop I never visited and the man said he didn't dare welding a bolt head or nut but thought there was enough room to get a thin 4" grinding wheel in as there was a thick washer under the flange of the bolt head. 2 minutes and done. No charge. He said we have to keep these old Shovels on the road; he was Shovelhead man!! I don't know where I am going from here. Approx 48,000 miles on original engine. The pistons aren't scuffed at all and the cylinders look great. I got it tore down this far so I may rebuild at least the top end.
 
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Old May 14, 2021 | 09:55 AM
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Take the front rod in your fingers and see if it twists clockwise and counter wise the amount if any will determine the condition of the lower unit

You can just ball hone the cylinders and re ring it but the heads - take a magnet and see if the valves have been replaced with unleaded stainless valves - exhaust is the most important to be stainless - if your going for this i can show you the correct parts to use
 
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