charging system
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 22
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From: clinton iowa
charging system
I installed a accell stator on my 76 fxe and checked the output with my ohmmeter the numbers on the ohmmeter went from 16 volts then back to 5 volts and more numbers popped there was not a steady output number. So I did a continuity test on the stator and it showed I had a direct short. I then ordered a new cycle electric stator and a cycle electric regulator installed them it shows thethat it is charging. but there is no steady number it goes up and down readings on the NEW digital ohmmeter. I can't believe that the new stator is bad already. I havn;t unplugged the regulator to ckeck for continuity test yet. the wire from the regulator is connected to the battery. any one have a idea why the ohmmeter doesn;t hold a steady number; I checked it on my sportsters and it holds a steady 13.40 volts while charging so its not the ohmeter
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 653
From: Potter County, PA
Why did you change to the Accel stator in the first place? I would isolate the battery / charging system from the bike and test the output, i.e. run only the wire from the regulator to the Positive terminal of the battery and make sure you have a good ground at the Negative Post and Frame. The stator's may not be the guilty party.
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Novice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 22
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From: clinton iowa
when I noticed the battery wasn;t being charged I put a another regulator on it and checked it; and it still wasn;t charging so I bought the accell stator hoping that would solve the problem.. The regulator is stock place so I know its grounded correctly..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
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From: la la land jerzey
Should have asked first it would have saved you money
no one replaces the original 11 amp set up anymore - everyone uses the evo Big twin 32 amp unit as a kit and almost every bike shop has a regulator in stock anyplace you travel
no one replaces the original 11 amp set up anymore - everyone uses the evo Big twin 32 amp unit as a kit and almost every bike shop has a regulator in stock anyplace you travel
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 224
Likes: 118
From: Kentucky
If your running solid core plug wires and non-resistor spark plugs that will cause most digital multimeters to act silly with the engine running, you can put in resistor plugs or wires temporarily or use an analog multimeter. Try that and see if that works.
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,212
Likes: 895
From: Nuremberg, Germany
Hi Larry,
i was thinking that when you test for a short/ ground that you set your multimeter to read ohms (with peep tone) & then touch one test lead to the motor & one test lead to one side of the out put plug on the stator, if there's any peep tone, then you have a short. when testing for Voltage your Alternator is going to show AC voltage, when you test your regulator you should get DC voltage for your Battery. if your testing for Voltage at the stator then shouldn't you BE getting AC current ? i mean thats why its called an Alternator or ? . . .
i was thinking that when you test for a short/ ground that you set your multimeter to read ohms (with peep tone) & then touch one test lead to the motor & one test lead to one side of the out put plug on the stator, if there's any peep tone, then you have a short. when testing for Voltage your Alternator is going to show AC voltage, when you test your regulator you should get DC voltage for your Battery. if your testing for Voltage at the stator then shouldn't you BE getting AC current ? i mean thats why its called an Alternator or ? . . .
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