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Hydrolic tappet collapse

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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 12:08 PM
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Default Hydrolic tappet collapse

I have an 82 FXS, stock motor, just a super E carb and 2 into 1 exhaust. Every so often when cruising i will have a tappet collapse but it pumps back up fairly quickly. Why does it do this? Possible oil type problem? I use valvoline racing oil 20/50 wt because of the high zinc content. I live in so cal and probably should be using 60 wt. I do have an oil cooler installed also. Any feedback would be appreciated. I have had the tappets out and checked all the ball valves and found no issues.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 03:58 PM
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i run motul 50 with oil cooler on 1980 fx stock oil pump never had a lifter problem
 
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 04:19 PM
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when you had the units out, was it all nice and clean with no scoring inside the unit and plunger? Has the gauze filter near the timing chest been cleaned? when you clean the unit out and assemble it dry, does the check ball kick in and does the unit operate smoothly up and down with resistance when pressed with your fingers ?
 

Last edited by old mago; Apr 10, 2022 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 07:40 PM
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If you know what one is doing it then turn it in 2 nut flats more on that one only - you could do all if you can’t determine what one is doing it
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 07:26 PM
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All internals look good, no scar'n, all ball valves ok, good pressure when squeezed. When i installed, all tappets were bled, i adjusted where i them to bottom where i could no longer spin the pushrod and see that its fully collapsed then back off that 1.5 turns on the nut. Lil noisey when first fired but stops immediately. Anything wrong with this adjustment method?

 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 07:36 PM
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From: la la land jerzey
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Your having noise issues

do not care for but many use that method -

now after its been run - we would re do the adjustment - like i explained max lift on one adjust the other - 3 turns down from the spot the lifter stops at top out

see what happened then
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 08:13 PM
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If you have one that is giving you problems, I would change it out, I have done this a couple times. Even though it seemed good, and held pressure when out, filled, and pushed by hand. When I replaced them, my troubles went away. They used to be real cheap, but surly a whole lot more now.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by FlatEarthDave
All internals look good, no scar'n, all ball valves ok, good pressure when squeezed. When i installed, all tappets were bled, i adjusted where i them to bottom where i could no longer spin the pushrod and see that its fully collapsed then back off that 1.5 turns on the nut. Lil noisey when first fired but stops immediately. Anything wrong with this adjustment method?
thats the way i do it . Ive done it the way johnjzjz is suggesting too......either way the hydraulic unit and the tappet has to be dry save for a thin coat of lube. you can actually turn the nut down with your fingers....yeah what Ken says probably solve the problem
 
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Old Apr 13, 2022 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenelz
If you have one that is giving you problems, I would change it out, I have done this a couple times. Even though it seemed good, and held pressure when out, filled, and pushed by hand. When I replaced them, my troubles went away. They used to be real cheap, but surly a whole lot more now.
many yrs ago i replaced 1 lifter with a used 1 from my hd mech at no cost and its still in use
 
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Old Apr 15, 2022 | 07:41 PM
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Drop the 20-50 and start running straight 50 or preferably 60. Won't stop one from collapsing but it will lower the odds and it does cut down on adjustment headaches and valve train noise in general.
 
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