When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have an 82 FXS, stock motor, just a super E carb and 2 into 1 exhaust. Every so often when cruising i will have a tappet collapse but it pumps back up fairly quickly. Why does it do this? Possible oil type problem? I use valvoline racing oil 20/50 wt because of the high zinc content. I live in so cal and probably should be using 60 wt. I do have an oil cooler installed also. Any feedback would be appreciated. I have had the tappets out and checked all the ball valves and found no issues.
when you had the units out, was it all nice and clean with no scoring inside the unit and plunger? Has the gauze filter near the timing chest been cleaned? when you clean the unit out and assemble it dry, does the check ball kick in and does the unit operate smoothly up and down with resistance when pressed with your fingers ?
Last edited by old mago; Apr 10, 2022 at 04:34 PM.
All internals look good, no scar'n, all ball valves ok, good pressure when squeezed. When i installed, all tappets were bled, i adjusted where i them to bottom where i could no longer spin the pushrod and see that its fully collapsed then back off that 1.5 turns on the nut. Lil noisey when first fired but stops immediately. Anything wrong with this adjustment method?
now after its been run - we would re do the adjustment - like i explained max lift on one adjust the other - 3 turns down from the spot the lifter stops at top out
If you have one that is giving you problems, I would change it out, I have done this a couple times. Even though it seemed good, and held pressure when out, filled, and pushed by hand. When I replaced them, my troubles went away. They used to be real cheap, but surly a whole lot more now.
All internals look good, no scar'n, all ball valves ok, good pressure when squeezed. When i installed, all tappets were bled, i adjusted where i them to bottom where i could no longer spin the pushrod and see that its fully collapsed then back off that 1.5 turns on the nut. Lil noisey when first fired but stops immediately. Anything wrong with this adjustment method?
thats the way i do it . Ive done it the way johnjzjz is suggesting too......either way the hydraulic unit and the tappet has to be dry save for a thin coat of lube. you can actually turn the nut down with your fingers....yeah what Ken says probably solve the problem
If you have one that is giving you problems, I would change it out, I have done this a couple times. Even though it seemed good, and held pressure when out, filled, and pushed by hand. When I replaced them, my troubles went away. They used to be real cheap, but surly a whole lot more now.
many yrs ago i replaced 1 lifter with a used 1 from my hd mech at no cost and its still in use
Drop the 20-50 and start running straight 50 or preferably 60. Won't stop one from collapsing but it will lower the odds and it does cut down on adjustment headaches and valve train noise in general.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.