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Hyd Lifter Adjustment

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Old Jul 27, 2022 | 05:36 PM
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Default Hyd Lifter Adjustment

Does this look right? Tightened until hyd unit bottomed, then backed off 1 1/2 turns. Looks like a lot of threads showing.




I've only done solid lifters or solid conversions. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 27, 2022 | 06:13 PM
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From: la la land jerzey
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The way we do them is not like i see

we take a turn the engine till one of the intake or exhaust is at full lift - you then adjust the other intake if the other intake is at full lift then do the exhaust swapping full lift to adjust the other lifter

and i go from the top down 3 turns from the start of movement - its easier when the engine has pumped the lifters up already

i have never been a fan of bottoming the lifter and 1 1/2 up - the early factory book was 3 down

i see the other exhaust is down so your not on the bace circle your on the flank
 
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Old Jul 27, 2022 | 06:24 PM
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Yet... I do them the 3, down on one cylinder at a time... only on compression stroke... most assuredly base circle... on some very radical cams..
 
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Old Jul 27, 2022 | 10:09 PM
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The opposite valve open technique is so much easier, I am glad it works on hydraulics too! Still have a lot of threads on the exhaust pushrods, but I am happy with them. I used 1 1/2 turns from bottom because the front lifters were fully collapsed, so couldn't feel them fully extended. My question is the rear ones still had pressure on the pushrods after loosening 1 1/2 turns, the fronts have up and down play. Is that expected?



 
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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 06:27 AM
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From: la la land jerzey
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Always a bleed off when moving them around in the first minuet they will clatter then stop when oil get to them - i dont mind it insures oil pressure
 
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Old Jul 28, 2022 | 04:30 PM
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i never had much success with the one down one up method and ended up with what you have in your pic so i went with the way it is described in the FSM.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2022 | 07:47 AM
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I just did this last week, my meathod is to take the hydo unit out, pull apart, drain the oil out of the unit, spray with a little carb cleaner and blow out. Then push the unit together, seems there is a little click just past when the spring touches. My origianl service manual (66 FLH) says four full turns down after the play is out, but I go a little past 3 turns. I don't like the 1 1/2 turns up either.

This from my notes, not sure where I got them:Valve Adjustment
Harley Davidson's hydraulic tappets max actuation range is .190-.200". (From zero lash to bottoming out) Factory adjustments usually ask for .100-.125" range. I've found they operate the best and the most quiet at .140-.150" range (cold set, not including cylinder growth at operating temps).
More with aftermarket cams then stock cams. Stock cams I set the pushrods at .125" or so.
Regardless, you need to know what thread pitch your pushrod threads are to adjust them properly.
TPI = threads per inch.
To find this, simply use a thread gauge, or count the threads in a one (1) inch section.
Keep in mind there's 6 wrench flats (flat sides of a nut) per 360* (full) turn of the pushrod adjusting nut.
1 complete 360* turn of a pushrod = 6 flats.
The most common thread groups are:
32tpi = 3.2 turns to .100" (.03125" per turn/.00520 per flat)
30tpi = 3.0 turns to .100" (.03333" per turn/.00555 per flat)
28tpi = 2.8 turns to .100" (.03571" per turn/.00595 per flat)
24tpi= 2.4 turns to .100" (.04165" per turn/.00694 per flat)
I run 24 tpi SE pushrods, set at 3.6 turns = .1499 tappet depth.
So, depending on your Brand/TPI, you would adjust the pushrod that many number of turns and be in the middle of the tappet depth range.
Brand list: (There are more. This is what I have.)
Revolution Performance Chromoly – 32 tpi

Jims Pro-Lite – 24 tpi

Slim Jims – 32 tpi

Andrews – 28 tpi

Andrews – 32 tpi

Crane New Time Savers – 28 tpi

Crane Old Time Savers – 24 tpi

Crane – 32 tpi

H-D – 32 tpi

S&S – 32 tpi

Screaming Eagle – 32 tpi

Screaming Eagle- 24 tpi

Rivera Taper Lite – 40 tpi

Rev Tech – 36 tpi
Adjusting a tappet requires a cold engine, due to cylinder growth at operating temps, changing the tappet operation depth. (slight decrease as the cylinder grows taller.)
Depending upon the Brand/TPI pushrod being used, the procedure is to get the lifter for the valve being adjusted on the base circle of the cam. The "Base Circle" of the cam is the lowers point the tappet rides on, indicating the valve is completely closed at that time.
The pushrod is then adjusted to the point of 0 lash.
"Zero Lash" is the point where there is no up/down play and but pushrod can still be turned easily using your oil covered thumb and index finger.
From that point, the pushrod is adjusted (extended) the required number of turns or wrench flats to set the plunger in the approximate center of the tappet's travel.
(.200" max = .100" center: See chart above for tpi and turns to .100")
After adjusting a tappet, it's critical to allow that tappet to sit for 15-20 minutes to bleed down and allow oil to escape from the hydraulic unit. Before turning the engine over to adjust another valve, you have to be able to spin the pushrod of the last adjusted valve with your fingers (now bled down) or you'll bend a pushrod or worse yet, bend a valve.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2022 | 07:58 AM
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Thanks, @Kenelz , I saved that for the future.
 
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