high comp starter?
high comp starter?
my 67 shovel isnt a totally hot rod but its around 9.5:1
i already have a hitachi starter. heavy duty cables, relay and solenoid. all seem to work fine except i always get stuck at the dreaded compression spot.
new 325cca battery doesnt change anything. has anyone with a non stock engine used one of those 1.4kw starters?
if i can hear some good input on anything but a stock engine it would help me decide to pull the trigger on one.
thanks in advance
i already have a hitachi starter. heavy duty cables, relay and solenoid. all seem to work fine except i always get stuck at the dreaded compression spot.
new 325cca battery doesnt change anything. has anyone with a non stock engine used one of those 1.4kw starters?
if i can hear some good input on anything but a stock engine it would help me decide to pull the trigger on one.
thanks in advance
Novice
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 21
Likes: 12
From: MO
high comp starters
For me, I run a all ***** starter. The reason is that the stock starters rear bracket on the fxe super glide was an issue, due to the six speed outer cover. The all ***** Starter is shorter, my comp ratio is 10:5 to 1 with no comp releases. Now the other thing that I had to learn was how it wanted to start. The need for a added relay is a must, in that a relay controls a large amount of amps, secondly, and this is what I do weather it is a kicker or electrical. Leave your ing off, run it through either by kicking or pushing the button, in that I run a SU carb with no accelerator pump I do not touch the fuel until she fires. The All ***** starter is pricey, but works very well
funny, I also run a SU carb. my bike starts up instantly as long as I can get past that compression point.
im looking at the allballs starter too. with that do you still have that tight spot you have to get past or does it spin the engine like a normal starter?
I do have a heavy duty relay. I think 30 or 40amp. I just had to install a new solenoid. USA made.
im looking at the allballs starter too. with that do you still have that tight spot you have to get past or does it spin the engine like a normal starter?
I do have a heavy duty relay. I think 30 or 40amp. I just had to install a new solenoid. USA made.
For me, I run a all ***** starter. The reason is that the stock starters rear bracket on the fxe super glide was an issue, due to the six speed outer cover. The all ***** Starter is shorter, my comp ratio is 10:5 to 1 with no comp releases. Now the other thing that I had to learn was how it wanted to start. The need for a added relay is a must, in that a relay controls a large amount of amps, secondly, and this is what I do weather it is a kicker or electrical. Leave your ing off, run it through either by kicking or pushing the button, in that I run a SU carb with no accelerator pump I do not touch the fuel until she fires. The All ***** starter is pricey, but works very well
I have a Hitachi which is supposed to be an upgrade but it still gets "stuck" at compression so I have to bump the starter.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
Some of the starter issues is the ignition and the timing used by it when it goes to start -
the aftermarket ignition like dyna or mid west has a delay and cranks the engine before turning its self on
not saying its not a starter issue but we have found ignition is always in the loop
the aftermarket ignition like dyna or mid west has a delay and cranks the engine before turning its self on
not saying its not a starter issue but we have found ignition is always in the loop
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I have a custom setup. it's a Genny shovel but it has a custom distributor with cone dyna single fire ignition.
Some of the starter issues is the ignition and the timing used by it when it goes to start -
the aftermarket ignition like dyna or mid west has a delay and cranks the engine before turning its self on
not saying its not a starter issue but we have found ignition is always in the loop
the aftermarket ignition like dyna or mid west has a delay and cranks the engine before turning its self on
not saying its not a starter issue but we have found ignition is always in the loop
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,154
Likes: 2,562
From: CT/FL
If that module doesn't have an electric start mode, you could install a push button switch that opens the circuit to the coil to kill the ignition until the motor gets up to speed. I had to do that with a 10:1 car engine in the past.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
Race cars use that the two buttons rocker type next to each other with two fingers crank and click
pull the hot from the coil - then crank the engine see what that does if it still stalls then move on
but at least 310 CCA battery and the starter out put lets say 1.75 is 3 HP unit and 310 is on the out side of power 350 or 400 would be better
its all money when you go down the rabbit hole of performance
pull the hot from the coil - then crank the engine see what that does if it still stalls then move on
but at least 310 CCA battery and the starter out put lets say 1.75 is 3 HP unit and 310 is on the out side of power 350 or 400 would be better
its all money when you go down the rabbit hole of performance