Sounds like CB is overheating,possibly faulty coil once hot.Did this start after ignition upgrade?

 

well its still not working right. No idea what to check anymore.
I replaced the coil and spark plugs, took the fuel filter off , took off fuel valve and checked screen.
When it first starts it runs good for a couple minutes...then it cuts out as if you shut the switch off. ...lights stay on.
start it up...drive for a minute or 2 and dies again.....start it up drive a few minutes and dies again. seems to do it when i give it alot of throttle..... could the bowl be starving for fuel?
once it runs for 10 minutes or so, it drives fine the rest of the day until it sits for 2 hours or so and then does it again.'
could the valves be sticking until it warms up.....could the float bowl let the bike run until it runs out ...then got to wait for it to fill up again ?
just guessing....... any ideas would be great.

 

Could be a bad voltage regulator, or its connection to the alternatorhas simplyvibrated itself loose from the engine case. The connectorshould be down by the kickstand mount. Lights will continue to work off your battery even though your engine stops running. But once your engine starts, the alternator takes over. On the other hand,even if the alternator stops sending juice to your coil,your bikeshould stilldraw current from your battery to keep things running - at least until your battery goes dead. But it could be a combination of faulty circuit breakers and an intermittant faulty voltage regulator. I would also check the ignition switch and the condition of its wiring. Could be grounding itself out and thinks that you've shut off the engine.

Troubleshooting electrical stuff can be a real bear. Best of luck.

 

As I have mentioned before, I am not mechanically smart or shovel educated... but it would seem to me the problem wouldn't lie in a vibration causing an electrical short or outage. The reason being that shovelman said the bike rides (and vibrates) just fine after about ten minutes of riding. So, if it were a vibration related problem, wouldn't it persist beyond the first ten minutes of "cold" riding?

If there is a flaw in my logic, please met me know. Knowing as little as I do, I need to be educated as well. I mean that sincerely & thanks to all of you who are willing to share your expeiriences and knowledge with those of us who lack both. I am learning a lot from all of you. (The occasional smart-assed comments and colorful descriptions make it fun too, thanks)

 

Hey Shovelman202,
Running out of ideas here. Try posting your symtoms over at www.shovelhead.us goto the forums. There are several of the best H-D mechanics on that board.... I'm sure one of them will figure this one out. I'm REALLY eager to know what is causing this behavior...

 

what kind of ignition are you running? specifically.
I had a similar prob with my electronic conversion (Dyna S ign), everyone swore up and down that it was fuel, but with new tanks and a carb less than 6 months old, i doubted it, so i put points back in, and haven't had a prob since.

does the problem persist at least a min or 2 after it dies??, if so have you checked spark during the "dead" times??

if the carb and fuel lines and tank are all clean, fuel should not be your prob. to check all elec before the coil, use a jumper between the hot lead on the solenoid to the power side of the coil. if it still dies, put points in it,

 

appreciate all the ideas, I have put this up on shovelhead.us but never got any ideas other than it must be the coil.
I have ran the power wire straight from the battery to the coil , so i know it never lost power there.
I have switched from the points to the dyna s about a year ago and never had a problem....
Just not sure why it works once it warms up..... could it be the float bowl not having enough gas at first startup then slowly gas fills it up as its running?
could a valve sticking ...or something mechanical when its cold being intermittent...then once warms up works fine.
I figured if it was the dyna ...shouldn't it have problems once it gets hot ...not when cold?
I am not a mechanic....just throwing ideas out there to people who are....so please don't take offense.

 

Sometimes, youneed to go back to the basics and establisha baseline in order to solve the problem. What I mean is a 4 stroke enginehas 4cycles:intake, compression, ignition, and exhaust, which requires various systems and theircomponents to function properly and in syncin order for it to work. One of the first thingstaught to me by an old skoolmaster mechanic isan engine depends on 4 things to light and stay lit:fuel,air, compression,and spark.The various systems that manages these(i.e.: air/fuel management, spark, ignition timing, valve timing,etc.)willwork in concert to either foror against you. Your problem with your bike could be a combination of faulty components and/or systems.

My suggestion would be to go through and test and correcteach and every system and their components to establish a baseline for your bike. This is not a cop out, but if you fix everything that needs fixing, there shouldn't be anything elsethat would prevent yourbike from working properly. Replacing parts randomly will not solve the problem and can get very expensive very quickly. On the positive side, however, the parts that you've replaced so far should eliminate them aspossible offender, save for a fault in thesystem not caused by the replaced part (just because a part is new or good does not mean the system is functioning properly). What I would do isget a couple of good manuals andmethodically go through andtest the various systems and components to identify andcorrect all faults. Also while you're at it, check and make all the necessary adjustments, such as adjusting push rods, ignition timing, etc.

If thewiring is old, modified, or other thanfactory, Iwould (if it were my ride)rewire the biketo make sure you have all good contacts, andequally important, that the bike is wired correctly. Even if the bike has original wiring, it means the wires, the contacts, and circuit breakersare at least 27 years old. And like some of us old farts, we get prettyrusty with age and our bodies, with all its aches and pains,works right one day and might not the next! Rewiring is time consuming, but is not all that difficult or costly.You can either follow the complex wiring schematica-lathe HD manual, or do a simple but effective rewire using the schematic found at this link: ( http://www.choppersandcustoms.net/tech/wiring/wiring1.jpg ). 8 spools of color coded 14or 12 ga. primary wires will cost you about $40. Circuit breakers will run about $4 a piece. Crimp connectors with heat shrink will set you back about $6 a box of 20 at WalMart. Piece of mind that you have good and fresh wiring on your bike, priceless!

Next, if you haven't done so, would be torebuild that S&S carb. A master rebuild kit from J&P Cycles will set you back about $70. I would also change out the rubber bands on the intake clamps while you're at it, if they look old or worn out. This isa very common source of air leaks. Even with new bands, I would make sure the bands andclamps are seated properly,tighten them, and retighten them after the bikereaches operating temp. To check for air leaks, spray some Gum Outcarb cleaner around the intake clamps while the engine is idling. If the engine speeds up, that means you have an air leak where you've sprayed. Be careful, however,when you're spraying around the S&S carb, especially around the throttle plate spring on the left side, and the accel pump on the right, since the

 

9/30 Sorry I gave you bad information. Exhaust was loose, miss did stop
after I tightened up the exhaust. LOL miss is back today, just a coincidence
it stopped after tightening exhaust.

 

Try cleaning all your wire connections. In my area Gulf Coast we are plaqued with rust issues. Good Luck with it!

Pakrat