Any heat cycle procedure/videos worth recommending? Top end re-build and the motor is back together, bike almost ready to run.

 

not so sure about heat cycles . What ive learned is that once the head is torqued, thats it dont touch those bolts again. I have a favourite mountain close by that i take for bedding in the rings. , dont let the motor labour in too higher gear dont over rev it.Drop the oil after500 miles change the filter, check the tappet clearences and you should be good to go

 

The BRIEF things I've read - run the motor for escalating durations & RPMs, allowing the motor to completely cool down before the next cycle. Run it for 30 seconds, idle RPM. Cool. Then run for a minute, low RPM etc. etc. etc. until you building up to short rides, continuing up from there. The goal is to help your piston rings properly seat.

 

Basically BS because they run the bikes in the factory when new to test them and they just fire them up and rev them hard, pedantic and exacting heat cycles are a warranty get out clause created by the aftermarket. What Old Magoo said is correct.

 

Yep ! The above is what a engine builder i know does. cool down completely between heat cycles . About 4 time sand then ride slow keeping the RPM's down. Change oil at 50 or 100 and then again at 500 mile.

 

thats pretty much what happens on the ride, diffrent time line.... its 80miles round trip ............around town its 30mph 40 mph 45mph speed limits then once out of town its 50mph 65mph some nice sweeping bends then about 5 Uturn bends that open up to a straight steep run up the hills.......added bonus is there is a pub at the bottom of the hill where i usually call in for a quiet one before headin home

 

IMO -I start it on the stand and work throttle between idle and 2500 RPM to operating temp then set idle. Back it off the stand and on the road in 3rd gear 1500RPM go wide open throttle to 3500 rpm a couple times. Put it in 4th and repeat 1500 to 3500 a few more times. This act will increase cylinder pressure and will expand the rings against the hatched cylinder walls to bed them or create the cylinder pressure seal you need for combustion. Next I go back to the shop and address and rattles I noticed from heat shields, look for leaks usually around pushrod tubes and snug up exhaust flanges after fully cooled.

 

You know an around town ride for 20-30 miles keeping it to 35mph and under 2800prm with prolonged idle sessions is about as clean an initial break in as you can get. 150 mi under 50 and don't get heavy hand till over 300-500 mi if you can resist that long. Checking the oil regular and I go over the head bolts again at the 50mi. point.