Clutch Or Tranny?
Thanks Pakrat
Anyway, here are the things that were bent, broken, or generally trashed,andhave to be chitcanned andreplaced:
- Bent clutch pressure plate.
- Bent clutch push rod.
- Bent and/or broken springs.
- Badly cut up primary drive belt.
Needless-to-say, the clutch innards looked so bad, I thought I'd betta take the tranny outand look inside just to be sure. I have to say, HD 4 speeds are one tought mudda! Other than the above-mentioned scrap metal, the tranny's innards looked unscathed; but to be sure, I'd checked clareances,tolerances and runouts, especially on the mainshaft. And much to my relief were all within tolerance.
So sinceI hadto rebuild my clutch anyway, I took the opportunity to replace seals and a few other things while I had the primary and tranny (somewhat) apart -I isgenerally alazy bloke, so usually I like to do things only once.
Including the above trashed parts, here are other parts I've changed:
- Throw out bearing (the old one was a lttle sloppy).
- Kickstarter gasket.
- Kickstart arm and pedalhardware (cleaned up the rusty spots too - now she's nice and tight).
- Rachet top gasket.
- Mainshaft oil seals.
- Little L-key for mainshaft/drive gear spacer (important little buggar; without it, the spacer will chew up your oil seal!).
- Mainshaft sproket nut (upgrade with built-in oil seal and O-ring).
- Tranny drain plug and washer (upgrade with magnetic plug)
- Tranny fill plug (upgrade with chromed hex head and O-ring seal, instead of the one with that stupid giganticPaul Bunyan screwdriverslot - who the ***** thought of that one!).
- Entirely new clutch hub (upgrade with 5 finger studs).
- New clutch friction plates.
- Motor sprocket shaft oil seal.
- Big round skinny O-ring that goes in between inner primary and crankcase, right behind the alternator rotor.
- Inner primary support bearing and oil seal.
- And of course new tranny oil.
I'd also decided to put those new fangolong roller cluctch hubbearings in place of the shorty bearings and basket; however, this left absolutely no wiggle room in the clutch basket (it was a bear getting the primary belt back on). I didn't like the way it made my clutch felt afterward (difficult shifting between first and second), so I switched it back to the sloppy shorty bearings and basket. I equate a Harley to a1911 .45 automatic. If you drop a1911 ona sandybeach, you'd simply wipe her off, and it'll still fire and discourage any would be muggers, because a 1911's tolerence is pretty loose fitting. But if you drop a Browning Hi-Power 9 mill (with very close tolerence), you're screwed. If a single grai
Pakrat (aka Greg)
Pakrat
Hope you end up just having to replace the tranny, I had a `67 xlch that still had the trans speedo drive unit in it. NO ONE told me about these things, anyway, I was on a LONG ride poker run and had that gear drive bind up and ended up knocking that corner of the case out! Was a REAL bitch trying to get it home and THEN find another set of cases, yea, bitch about a sporter being unit cases you have to find a complete lower end to fix a busted trans case OR find one hell of a wielder that can do aluminum. ANYWAY,,,, hardest part of replacing the tranny is getting the clutch basket off, something like a 1 3/4 or 1 5/8th socket and busting that nut loose. Once you get that all apart it's like 5 bolts on the trap door and it all slides out as a one piece unit. Oh yea, you have to remove the rear drive sprocket also.....
You might check e-bay or ask someone over at www.xlforum.net to see if you can find another tranny..... Hope this helps,,,,
Pakrat
Trending Topics
on the Ironhead forum there are some guys that know all about them trannies and clutches, and even how to make the clutch compressor to remove the clutchFact last week there was a discussion on clutch removal and the tools needed check it out Dusty
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