Hard to start
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
RE: Hard to start
madav8tr,
Rodney gave you a great tip for checking spark by manually opening the points yourself rather than using the kick starter. Ensure that whatever you use to open the points isn't going to ground the moveable point as the idea is to break it's connection to ground as they separate.
Rodney gave you a great tip for checking spark by manually opening the points yourself rather than using the kick starter. Ensure that whatever you use to open the points isn't going to ground the moveable point as the idea is to break it's connection to ground as they separate.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
RE: Hard to start
good point MagaW.
what I did when I had a points distributor was to have the points closed just where you could turn the cam which opens the points, the screw diver is a bad plan its just what was handy[&:]
thanks Vintage, it's fun throwing ideas out but should "note to users:" use at your own risk
what I did when I had a points distributor was to have the points closed just where you could turn the cam which opens the points, the screw diver is a bad plan its just what was handy[&:]
thanks Vintage, it's fun throwing ideas out but should "note to users:" use at your own risk
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Hard to start
Yeah, I didn't think about manualy opening the points. It would be easier to ground the plug to the head and check the spark by myself that way. I appreciate the help. I work 12-14 on the weekends when I am scheduled to work, like this weekend, so I haven't had a chance to test anything yet. Maybe when I get off work tonight I can get down to business with it for a little while. Thanks again.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Hard to start
I think I have it figured out. The motherfooker is possessed by the d@mned devil. Pushrods were a little tight so adjusted them again, checked the points again and they were good, actually had the carb spacer screwed up a little when I installed it after the headgasket replacement(I had 2 o-rings on the carb side and none on the manifold side) so I fixed that, battery charged, plugs looked great when I pulled them. Compression felt fine at the kicker so I thought this baby is ready to fire. 15-20 kicks later, nothing but a "poof from the carb. Had few beers while looking at it and then called it a night. Well this morning I woke up determined to figure this out. Headed out to the garage, flipped the enrichener, kicked it through 2 times and gave the throttle a twist, turned the switch on, got it to TDC and dropped the hammer. Of course she fired up like nothing was wrong. D@MN, this is frustrating. I let her idle for a while, can't ride because I melt in the rain, and I shut her down. I am going to let her cool of completely then try it again. I "know" she won't start next time because it's my luck but I sure am hoping she does. Thanks for the responses and the help.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
RE: Hard to start
I like the sequence you used this time for starting, Thats basically how I started my 68 when kick only. the misplaced o-rings surly could have been a problem. Take her for a ride when you can
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Hard to start
"Maybe" I have it figured out. Hard starting issues continued, though not near as bad after I adjusted the pushrods and fixed the intake O-ring issue. Sometimes it would start easy and others I would have to kick it 10 times before it started. I got to doin a little research and found out some really helpfull stuff. I ended up replacing what I thought were Blue Streak Points and Condenser with actual Blue Streak stuff. I think the crap I was told were Blue Streak was actually Duralast?. Regardless, new points and condenser and a fresh set of plugs seem to have it running GREAT. I used Bosch Platinum plugs this time and gapped them at .30 instead of .25 like the last plugs. I also ended up looking at the carb's idle mixture screw. It was almost all the way out so I followed S&S's reccomendation and I set it 1-1/2 turns out from seated. It has been kicking over almost effortlessly compared to before. I used to have to basically stand on the kicker and then really come down on it to start it but now all I have to do is kick it through and it has been starting. Big improvement so far and I am hoping it continues. Thanks for the help again.
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 8
From: Central Oregon
RE: Hard to start
after the engine is completely warmed up 15 minutes of riding adjust the air fuel mixture to best rpm you know how to do that. if it is at the 1 1/2 or close to it good deal if it is screwed almost all the way in or way out you will need to change the intermediate jet accordingly as described in the carb manual.
Great job!! [8D] 
[8D]
Great job!!
[8D] [8D]
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 546
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Hard to start
Yeah I read about setting it a bit more precise on S&S's website but it say to set it at 1000rpm and my bike doesn't have a tach. Besides, it's running well and starting easy so I am not going to mess with it for fear I will screw it up again[sm=noooo.gif]. In reality it seems to be at the best RPM right now. Here is a rather large pic of the ole choppa
