I have a 1979 FLH.&nbsp\\; It had been running great all year.&nbsp\\; One morning it wouldn't start and was puking oil out of the breather.&nbsp\\; I replaced the check valve ball and spring in the oil pump and cleaned the tappet oil screen.&nbsp\\; After this, it fired up.&nbsp\\; Two days later, it would not&nbsp\\;start again and is again dripping oil out of the breather.&nbsp\\; I tried reseating the check valve ball but it still will not start.&nbsp\\; The battery, ignition coil, spark plugs, and connections are all fine.&nbsp\\; Should I replace the oil pump?&nbsp\\; Would wet sumping cause the bike not to start?&nbsp\\; Please help!

 

Sometinmes debrie gets between ball and seat.&nbsp\\; Clean it off and reseat the ball.&nbsp\\; If it doesn't help they make a tool for recutting the seat.&nbsp\\; Replacing the pump would be my last option.&nbsp\\; You could remove the plugs and let the starter pump out the lower end before trying to start it.

 

I cleaned off all debris and tried to reseat, but it still won't start.&nbsp\\; I'm getting pretty desperate since I have a road trip next week.&nbsp\\; I might just put on a new oil pump.&nbsp\\; Can&nbsp\\;anyone think of anything else that it could be?&nbsp\\; I really appreciate the help.

 

If you are going to change the pump, pull off the cam cover and check the breather gear.&nbsp\\; I believe it's plastic in your model.&nbsp\\; It might have worn and jumped time.&nbsp\\; Check everything else in there.&nbsp\\; Also you said the plugs were fine.&nbsp\\; Are you getting a strong spark?

 

They are in good condition and gapped correctly.&nbsp\\; As far as checking the spark, the manual says I need a special tool to check the spark.&nbsp\\; This tool is a test plug (HD-26792).&nbsp\\; Is this the only way to test?&nbsp\\; I know an old school way is to lay the plug across the cylinder head to ground and turn it over to check for spark.&nbsp\\; Is this an acceptable procedure?&nbsp\\; What would you suggest?

 

The plug method is&nbsp\\;the way I always have tested.&nbsp\\; The 78 1/2 to 82 manual&nbsp\\;says insert a conductive adapter in wire and see if it jumps a 3/16 gap to cylinder head.&nbsp\\; Plug method is easier.&nbsp\\;

 

Oil is still puking out of the breather, but I got it started!&nbsp\\; I checked for spark, and had none.&nbsp\\; My electonic ignition had shorted out.&nbsp\\; I replaced and it fired right up.&nbsp\\; Thanks for all your help!

 

If you are going to replace the pump, I would pull the cam cover, You're going to have to do it anyway to change the pump.&nbsp\\; If the breather gear wore and got out of time it could cause the oil puking.&nbsp\\; If the oil stops afer a few seconds its probably the check valve.

 

Just had a problem with oil puking. Then developed a bad tapping.

There must have been a lot of crap in the oil. The new screen was

plugged. Put in another screen and have no problems now.&nbsp\\; I would

put a new screen in or check it again. Before I did the hard expensive options.

 

If your screen plugged that quickly, check your oil filter and find out what kind of junk it is catching.&nbsp\\; It might give you a clue of a pending problem.&nbsp\\; ie copper colored particules indicates a bushing gone bad.&nbsp\\; Steel could be bearings or gear damage.&nbsp\\; I had a piston pin bushing spin in the rod and the filter tipped me off before it did any expensive damage.